CHAPTER XXI 



ITALY 



1881-1882 



IN the summer of 1881, owing to the ill health of a member of 

 his family and also to his own run-down condition, Mr. Shaler 

 set sail for Europe. Going first to England, by easy stages he 

 gradually made his approach to Italy, and before the cold 

 season closed in, established himself comfortably in a villa out- 

 side the Porta Romana at Florence. When he first saw the 

 Tuscan city it was girt about by the ancient walls that for cen- 

 turies had been its protection against its many enemies. But 

 now on one side these walls were torn away to let the town grow 

 freely should it fancy to expand. The barrier that once served 

 for safety now only kept the smugglers of wine and oil from 

 evading the duty. The brisk customs officer, with his pen over 

 his ear and a probe to rummage in the loads of hay, took the 

 place of the wardens of old with their trumpets and cross-bows. 

 The old scenes were doubtless more picturesque, but through 

 the gate the tide of life still flowed. All the wagons of the coun- 

 try people must stop and be searched, for everything that 

 came into the town was taxed. This made the gate a whirlpool 

 in the stream of life, and Mr. Shaler never passed through it, 

 though it might be several times a day, without seeing some- 

 thing that was worth telling, or getting some hint as to the real 

 nature of the people. 



In his walks he was frequently accompanied by an English 

 officer who had survived many perilous campaigns in India. 

 Both were exceedingly critical of the Italian soldier ; they de- 

 precated his lack of discipline and especially when on duty his 



