Pruning the Peach 189 



growth is not desired, but a good vigorous amount is to 

 be encouraged at all times. 



The style of pruning that is most approved of for 

 peaches is that which will allow of an open head. This 

 will permit the sunlight to penetrate down into the center 

 of the head and cause the branches to set more fruit buds 

 and to reduce the amount of rot in the fruit. Trees so 

 pruned will usually make a large number of small twigs 

 on the bases of the larger branches and increase the num- 

 ber of buds on the tree. These small branches are usually 

 the most hardy, and carry through the winter in better 

 shape. 



Pruning in peaches is not done as a rule until rather 

 late in winter or early in spring, for the reason that it is 

 best to wait until it can be determined with some cer- 

 tainty whether there, will be a crop of fruit that season or 

 not. If the fruit should have all been killed by a severe 

 winter or a late freeze, then the pruning will have to be 

 done differently than if there is good prospects for a full 

 crop. Where the fruit has not been damaged by the cold 

 weather, then the amount of wood to remove will be only 

 about half of the longest branches, cutting in all cases so 

 as to maintain the shape of the tree and to keep the center 

 open. Any large limbs that have a tendency to crowd up 

 the center of the tree should be either cut out entirely or 

 so shortened back that they will not shut out the sunlight 

 from the middle. 



When the fruit has all been killed by the severity of the 

 weather, advantage can be taken of the circumstance to 

 cut back more or less severely and renew the top of the 

 tree. This will have the advantage of lowering the top and 

 reshaping the tree. It is a method that has its limitations, 

 but is very useful where the fruit buds have all been killed. 



In cases where the injury from the winter has damaged 

 the wood of the tree to such an extent that it has a brown 

 color, it is advisable to head-back the tree, cutting often- 

 times into wood that may be as much as four years old. 

 This will so reduce the size of the top that the roots can 



