222 The Fruit-Growers Guide-Book 



they are set in the fall and must remain dormant through- 

 out the winter. 



Red varieties are usually propagated from stickers 

 thrown up from the roots, but root cuttings may also be 

 made the same as with blackberries and dewberries. Some 

 varieties of the red raspberry do not make suckers very 

 readily and so must be propagated from root cuttings. 



The rows need to be about six feet apart and the plants 

 set four or five feet apart in the rows, if they are to be 

 grown in hills. If solid rows are to be made, then the 

 plants can go as close as two feet in the rows. The hill 

 system is the most desirable where the canes must be bent 

 over for winter protection. 



Pinching and Pruning 



With the red varieties there will be no need of summer 

 pinching after the first summer. The blackcaps will need 

 to be pinched in the same manner as the blackberries. This 

 will make them throw out strong side branches, which may 

 grow out to a considerable length and take root at the tip. 

 These tips can be used in enlarging the plantation, or may 

 be dug cut and thrown away as, if left, they will interfere 

 with cultivation. The canes of both the red and black va- 

 rieties are biennial, so that all old canes should be removed 

 when done fruiting. It is best to remove them as soon as 

 the fruit has all been harvested, as then the entire space 

 can be given over to the new canes. 



Winter Protection 



In the Northern States, where the weather becomes se- 

 vere during the winter, the canes of both kinds of rasp- 

 berries are killed to the ground. On this account it is 

 advisable to bend the canes over and cover them with soil 

 as in the case of the blackberries. This work should be 

 done at a time when the canes are not frozen, as when the 

 wood is frozen it is very brittle, and the canes will break 

 instead of bending. 



