270 The Fruit-Growers Guide-Book 



with the other buds on the tree, and then the seedling top 

 must be cut off at from one-half an inch to an inch above 

 the bud. This will throw all of the growth into the new 

 bud, which will shoot up rapidly. A large number of little 

 sprouts will spring up around the stump, and it will be 

 necessary to rub them off two or three times during the 

 summer in order to keep the growth where it is wanted. 



It is best to plant peach seeds in rows running north 

 and south, which will make it possible to bud all of the 

 trees on the north side. This is believed to be desirable, 

 because it is thought that the sun may injure the buds 

 when they are first inserted. One season's growth from 

 the bud makes trees of the proper age for planting in the 

 orchard. 



"Springing the Bud" 



In very early budding, or at any time during a dry sea- 

 son when it is difficult to obtain mature buds, pinching the 

 little points of the shoots from which the buds are to be 

 taken ten days or so before they are required will have the 

 result of perfecting them. This is called "springing the 

 bud" and is the proper practice when the embryonic twig 

 seems to be loitering. We have a great deal to learn yet 

 about budding and it is a science which every horticulturist 

 should acquire for the time is coming when we will be 

 producing the most of our planting and renewal stock in 

 this way. 



How to Make Grafting Wax 



Gratfing waxes may be prepared in a great variety of 

 ways, nearly all of them using resin and beeswax for the 

 foundation. Some grafting waxes need to be melted over 

 a fire and applied hot, others are soft and pliable when 

 cold. The latter can be used in cool climates, but where 

 the summers are very warm, the thin waxes when used on 

 wounds or top-grafts are liable to melt and run. 



The hard waxes can easily be kept in a working condi- 

 tion in the field by placing the vessel containing the wax 



