Pruning the Vine 59 



At the third winter's pruning the sultana vine 

 should be fully formed. The arms should range 

 from 6 inches to 1 foot in length, the most vigorous- 

 growing vines having the longest arms. 



The canes selected for fruiting wood should con- 

 sist of fairly strong but not over rank rods, which, 

 as a rule, should not be left longer than three feet, 

 and if the canes have any lateral growth on them 

 this should be removed. Six canes will generally be 

 sufficient for vines of average strength, but vines 

 that have grown very vigorously may be left with 

 eight canes. 



The canes are usually twisted on to the bottom 

 and second wires, but some growers prefer to twist 

 them all on to the bottom wire, thereby having all 

 the fruiting wood on one plane. In putting on 

 to the wires the canes should be vigorously twisted, 

 so as to give them a decided kink near their junction 

 to the main arm, and should then be strongly wound 

 around the wires so as to practically fracture the 

 cane without breaking it between each set of 

 nodes. 



This twisting and partial fracturing of the canes 

 between the nodes is done for the purpose of check- 

 ing the rush of sap in the spring time of mostly 

 getting to the end of the rods, and thereby forcing 

 out the buds nearer to the main arm. 



To provide fruiting wood for the next season's 

 crop, some of the canes that are not wanted for the 

 present season's fruiting are cut back to one or two 

 buds. As a rule it will not be found necessary to 

 leave as many spurs as canes, as strong rods usually 

 shoot out where the old cane has been strongly 

 twisted, either near its base at the main arm or 

 where it has been twisted on to the wire, and these 

 canes can be utilized for fruiting wood. If suitable 

 rods are found near the end of the main arms it is 



