THE APRICOT, 41 



South Apricots are sometimes grown as standards in the 

 open, but the trees are very unreliable in cropping. 



Sites. The site for each tree must be properly pre^- 

 pared before planting. Dig out holes 2ft. deep, and if 

 the subsoil is inclined to be damp put in 6in. of broken 

 bricks and old mortar, and ram this down tightly. If 

 the subsoil is well drained no drainage need be added; 

 simply mix old mortar or small chalk nodules with the 

 soil, and refill to within Gin. of the surface. Tread down 

 firmly. Each site should be prepared thus, 2ft. deep, 

 4 to 6ft. long, and the same in width. 



Forms of Tree. Apricots are grown in three forms 

 dwarf fan-trained, tall fan-trained, and cordons. The first 

 form is suitable for walls 8 to i2ft. high; the second for 

 those 12 to 1 4ft. ; the third for those 5 to 7ft. or 8ft. high. 

 The dwarf trees have main stems about 6in. to gin. high, 

 and branches radiating therefrom. The tall trees, called 

 standards or riders, have main stems 3 to 5ft. high, with 

 branches at the apex. Cordons consist of a single stem 

 furnished with spurs and no branches. 



Distance to Plant. Dwarf trees should be planted 25ft. 

 apart. Between every two dwarf trees a tall standard 

 tree may be planted, the object being to cover the wall 

 quickly. The space between the dwarfs may be utilised 

 by planting cordons 2ft. apart, or they may be planted 

 by themselves. 



When to Plant. From the middle of September to the 

 end of November is the best time to plant Apricots. 



Planting. When the trees arrive from the nursery 

 examine the roots, and cut off any bruised portions. 

 Should they have become dry in transit, immerse them 

 in water for a few hours. In planting spread out the 

 roots evenly, and slightly cover them with fine soil ; give 

 the tree a shake to settle the soil ; then add more soil 

 and tread it down firmly, finally filling the hole and mak- 



