THE GRAPE VINE. 109 



ders for them; indeed, such would only be of any ser- 

 vice for .a year or so, as the roots would soon extend 

 beyond the limits of an ordinary border. Many people 

 do not seem to be aware of this important fact. They 

 often dig in manure around the base of the stem, or apply 

 liquid manure, both of which can be of no possible ser- 

 vice to the Vine, because its feeding, or fibrous, roots 

 are not located anywhere near the stem, but many yards 

 away in the garden. It is therefore useless to apply 

 manures, or even water, to old Vines, because they can- 

 not benefit by either. 



If the soil is not particularly good, dig out a hole 3ft. 

 or 4ft. square and 3ft. deep, and fill this with a compost 

 of two parts loam and one of equal proportions of old 

 mortar, burnt earth, or wood-ashes, but add no manure. 

 If the site should be damp, put 6in. of brickbats in the 

 bottom to serve as drainage. This will give the Vines 

 a good start, after which the roots will, of course, pene- 

 trate into the neighbouring soil, and take care of them- 

 selves. 



Planting. The proper season to plant Vines is in 

 October or during February. The Vines, as a rule, are 

 purchased in pots. Carefully turn them out, and remove 

 the drainage from the base of the ball ; then unravel the 

 roots, and spread them out evenly where they are to 

 grow. Cover them with about six inches of soil, and 

 then tread the soil down firmly. After planting mulch 

 the surface of the soil with manure, and loosely secure 



the branches to the wall. 



i 



Position. The only aspect on which Vines will ripen 

 their fruit properly is a south wall. They will grow on 

 other aspects, it is true, but they will not develop their 

 berries to perfection. 



Pruning and Training. There are three methods of 

 training a Vine on a wall. One is to plant the Vines, 

 sa y> 3ft. apart, and train each up with one stem, as is 



