116 FRUIT AND ITS CULTIVATION. 



or sandy soils if plenty of good rotten manure be mixed 

 with them. Deep digging is most essential. A sunny 

 position is desirable, but not imperative. The Loganberry 

 can be grown as a single clump, or trained over arches ; 

 or it may be grown in rows. It may also be successfully 

 grown on a north or east wall. 



Culture. The best time to plant is in October or 

 March. If to be grown in quantity, plant 6ft. apart in 

 rows Qft. asunder. Like the Blackberry, the shoots 

 should be cut down to the ground when planted, to en- 

 courage strong young shoots to develop for bearing fruit 

 the next year. A stout post, 6ft. to 8ft. high, should 

 be placed to each plant, and strands of stout wire ift. 

 apart be fixed to these for training the shoots to. The 

 shoots should be trained each way, so that sun and air 

 can gain access to them. In summer mulch heavily with 

 rotten manure, and as soon as fruit forms give plentiful 

 supplies of water in dry weather, and liquid manure, cess- 

 pool contents, or house slops. Loganberries are gross 

 feeders, and therefore will not, on light soils, object to 

 being fed even in winter with liquid manures occasionally. 



Pruning. Each season, as soon as the plants have 

 ceased fruiting, cut out all shoots that have borne fruit, 

 and also thin out weak shoots of the current year's 

 growth. In autumn cut off the soft tips of all the re- 

 maining growths and train them to the trellis. In some 

 soils the shoots will grow loft, to isft. long in the season. 

 These very long shoots should be bent down to the top 

 of the trellis and shortened accordingly. Avoid retaining 

 too many shoots, as overcrowding means inferior fruit. 



W 



Gathering the Fruit Do not gather the fruit until it 

 is fully ripe, as until then its true flavour is not properly 

 developed. 



Culture on Walls. The Loganberry also does well 

 grown against a lofty east or north wall. A cottager in 



