216 FRUIT AND ITS CULTIVATION. 



tree that refuses to bear fruit satisfactorily, instead of 

 digging up and replacing it by a young tree, the branches 

 can be sawn off to within a foot of the main stem, as is 

 done in the case of old standards and scions whip grafted 

 on the stumps. A tree grafted thus is shown in accom- 

 panying sketch. The process is carried out precisely as 

 directed for whip grafting in the ordinary way in above 

 paragraphs. Another method of side grafting is to make 

 a T-like incision in the bark, as is done for budding, and 

 then to raise the bark on each of the long incisions. You 

 next take a small branch about Sin. long to form the scion, 

 shave off the lower end to a wedge shape on one side, and 

 then gently push this portion under the raised bark, just 

 as would the shield of a bud when budding. All that 

 remains is to bandage the wound round with twine, and 

 then cover all with grafting wax or clay, as shown in 

 accompanying sketches (Figs. 87 and 88). Both methods 

 are easy to carry out. 



Time to Graft. The best time for grafting young trees 

 is in April, and older ones towards the end of April or early 

 in May. The sap is then in a sufficiently active condition 

 to unite to form a callus or union with the scion. The 

 latter, of course, must not be so forward in activity as the 

 stock. The scions (Figs. 78 and 79) should be procured in 

 winter, and burie'd two-thirds of their length in sand or 

 soil on the north side of a wall to keep the sap dormant. 



Subsequent Treatment of Grafted Trees. As soon as 

 the scions have made new shoots about six inches or so 

 long, the grafting wax or clay covering should be removed 

 and the material used for tying unloosened slightly to allow 

 for expansion of the bark. It is also, as a precaution 

 against injury by wind, a good plan to affix a stake firmly to 

 each scion and its growths. 



