148 SOILS 



Inoculation by means of soil. If this method is to be 

 used whether obtained from nearby fields, or shipped 

 long, distances the evidence should be clear that the soil 

 is free from the objections just stated. Here is the plan : 

 take soil from some field known to contain the desired 

 bacteria. Does this soil yield the legume abundantly? 

 Do you find tubercles on the roots? You do. Then 

 that is good soil for the purpose. All you need to do is 

 transfer this already-inoculated soil to the land that is to 

 receive the good fairies of the land. If this soil is fine 

 and mellow and of good tilth, if it is well drained, either 

 naturally or artificially, if it is free from distasteful acids, 

 then other things being equal the plant at home in its 

 environment, the soil suitable to it the crop will grow, 

 the bacteria will prosper, the land will yield forth its 

 fruitfulness. 



In getting the soil, it is best to go down where the roots 

 grow not the top layer. A layer between two and six 

 inches from the surface will be just about right. Apply 

 this soil to the field that is to be inoculated, or else mix 

 with the seed, slightly covering with the harrow. 



And now another question : How much soil is neces- 

 sary? Not much. Just 200 to 500 pounds per acre will 

 do. If the soil be in good condition, a small quantity will 

 leaven the entire mass, the entire solid body. On the 

 other hand, if the soil is bad, physically, a larger quantity 

 may be better twice the quantity previously suggested. 

 In either case, mix with other soil just common soil of 

 the field and then harrow for even distribution. That 

 is all there is to inoculation when inoculated soil is used. 

 Once done, it is always done, provided the legume crop 

 is not neglected for too great an intervening period. 



Inoculation by soaking seed in soil and water. The 

 second suggestion is often used in practice now. Soil is 



