THE wind's will 



121 



perhaps ripped like a piece of tissue paper. 

 The wind now has a rough edge to push against 

 instead of a smooth surface; and it drives so 

 hard at this point that the water just ahead of 

 it is forced upward into a tiny wedge or wave. 

 The wedge itself at once becomes an upright 

 face that catches the wind. It is driven ahead 

 with a push that causes its top to outrun its 

 base and thus sink forward and downward. 

 The fall displaces and drives into wave form 

 the water ahead, helping on the further break- 

 ing of the envelope and the formation of new 

 wedges. Presently the whole surface of the 

 waters is covered by tiny waves, flashing with 

 a thousand facets, and making what is called 

 " a ruffled sea." 



Sometimes just before an approaching storm, 

 and apparently without any wind, there is an 

 unaccountable agitation of the surface. The 

 small waves seem much excited, leaping up in 

 little points, and breaking off abruptly with a 

 dull swash. But usually the disturbance of the 

 surface increases only by continued pressure 

 of the wind. The ruffled sea passes into the 

 " chopping " or " choppy " sea by gradual tran- 

 sitions. The more upright surface exposed 

 and the higher the apex of the wave, the greater 

 the force hurled against it, and the stronger 



Breaking 

 of the 

 covering. 



The ruffled 

 sen. 



The sea 

 before a 

 stnrm. 



