WORKING FERRETS. 



be a good number, say nine or ten, in the lot, 

 it is a good plan to remove them into a larger 

 place for sleeping, as young ferrets are very 

 liable to catch the red mange, which arises 

 from too many being together and sweating- 

 very much. 



WHEN WORKING FERRETS FOR BAT-CATCHING 

 always w r ork them unmuzzled. Make as little 

 noise as possible, as Eats are very bad to bolt 

 sometimes. Never grab at the ferret as it 

 leaves the hole, nor tempt it out of the hole 

 with a dead Eat. The best way is to let the 

 ferret come out of its own choice, and then 

 pick it up very quietly, for if you grab at it it 

 is likely to become what we 'call a " stopper ;"' 

 and never on any account force a ferret to go 

 into a hole. 



WHEN WORKING FERRETS FOR BABBIT-SHOOTING 

 always muzzle them. The old-fashioned style- 

 of muzzle is, I think, the best, that is, made 

 with string. I don't approve of wire muzzles, 

 as they are liable to catch against tree roots, 

 and bits of sharp stones, and from experience- 

 I find the ferret works much better with the 

 string muzzle. 



There is one way of working ferrets when 

 rabbit-shooting which, if followed, I think 

 would lead to a better day's shooting. You 

 will often see the ferrets stick up with the 



