26 GARDEN AND FARM TOPICS. 



fresh loam, rotted manure, and leaf mould, with half of 

 either quantity of sand. In potting, the neck of the 

 bulb should be kept above the surface of the soil, that 

 the roots may have so much more space in the pot ; 

 and when the potting is completed they should be placed 

 together, either in a cold frame or in some convenient 

 place, so that they may be covered a foot thick with 

 fresh leaves. These exclude light and prevent frost 

 from getting to the roots, both essential to a speedy 

 excitement of root-growth. 



In about five or six weeks it will be found that many 

 of them have filled the pots with roots, and these may be 

 taken into a temperature of 55 to bring on their flowers ; 

 and if re-potted when the first two leaves have grown a 

 few inches, the flowers will be considerably larger ; but 

 before any plant is taken from the bed of leaves, be sure 

 that it has made a good stock of healthy roots, or it will 

 be spoiled by the forcing process. Narcissi do not re- 

 quire a powerful heat to bring out their flowers, (55 will 

 do it better than any other,) and the supply of water 

 should be sufficient, but by no means excessive. 



The Paper Narcissus, JV. papyraceus, is now, perhaps, 

 more extensively forced than either of the above men- 

 tioned. It is grown in immense quantities by the florists 

 of New York and other large cities, and, next to the Roman 

 Hyacinth, is the bulb most extensively grown for this 

 purpose. When grown on a large scale it is planted in 

 boxes of soil about five inches deep, at a distance of 

 three to four inches apart, and treated as recommended 

 above. This, like nearly all other bulbs, is of no value 

 after being forced, and the roots may be thrown away. 



When grown in the open borders the bulbs should b& 

 planted in October, in newly dug and well-manured 

 ground, at a depth of three inches, reckoning from the 



