STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 17 1 



growth, when the hay around each plant is pushed a little 

 aside, to assist it in getting through the covering, so that 

 by May the fully developed plant shows on the clean 

 surface of the hay. This mulching, as it is called, is 

 indispensable to the best culture, as it protects the plants 

 from cold in winter, keeps the fruit clean, keeps the 

 roots cool by shading them from the hot sun in June, and 

 at the same time saves nearly all further labor after 

 being once put on, as few weeds can push through it. 



NEW BEDS EVERY YEAR. 



By this method I prefer to plant new beds every year, 

 though, if desired, the beds once planted may be fruited 

 for two or three years, as by the old plans; but the fruit 

 the first season will always be the largest in size, if not 

 greatest in number. Another advantage of this system 

 is that, where space is limited, there is quite time enough 

 to get a crop of Potatoes, Pease, Beans, Lettuce, Rad- 

 ishes, or, in fact, any summer crop off the ground first 

 before planting the Strawberries, thus taking two crops 

 from the ground in one year, if desired, and there is also 

 plenty of time to crop the ground with Cabbage, Cauli- 

 flower, Celery, or other fall crop after the crop of Straw- 

 berries has been gathered. 



How TO MAKE POT LAYERS. 



The plan of getting the pot layers of Strawberries is 

 very simple. Just as soon as the fruit is gathered, if the 

 beds are well forked up or deeply cultivated by a wheel 

 hoe between the rows, the runners or young plants will 

 begin to grow, and in two weeks will be fit to layer in 

 pots. The pots, which should be from two to three 



