MANURES AND THEIR MODES OF APPLICATION. 197 



plowing or digging, about thick enough to just color the 

 surface, or about as thick as sand or sawdust is sown on 

 a floor, and then thoroughly harrowed in if plowed, or, 

 if dug, chopped in with a rake. This quantity is used 

 broadcast by sowing on the ground after plowing, and 

 deeply and thoroughly harrowing in, or, if in small gar- 

 dens, forked in lightly with the prongs of a garden fork 

 or long-toothed steel rake. When applied in hills or 

 drills, from 100 to 300 pounds should be used to the 

 acre, according to the distance of these apart, mixing 

 with soil, etc., as already directed. 



When well-rotted Stable Manure is procurable at a cost 

 not to exceed $3 per ton, delivered on the ground, whether 

 from horses or cows, it is preferable to any concentrated 

 fertilizer. Rotted Stable Manure, to produce full crops, 

 should be spread on the ground not less than three inches 

 thick, (our market gardeners use from 50 to 75 tons of 

 well-rotted Stable Manure per acre, when no concentrated 

 fertilizer is used,) and should be thoroughly mixed with 

 the soil by plowing or spading. The refuse hops from 

 breweries form an excellent fertilizer, at least one-half 

 more valuable, bulk for bulk, than Stable Manure. Other 

 excellent fertilizers are obtained from the scrapings or 

 shavings from horn or whalebone manufactories. The 

 best way to make these quickly available is to compost 

 them with hot manure, in the proportion of one ton of 

 refuse horn or whalebone with fifteen tons of manure. 

 The heated manure extracts the oil, which is intermingled 

 with the whole. 



The manure from the chicken or pigeon house is very 

 valuable, and when composted as directed for Bone Dust 

 and Guano, has at least one-third their value. Castor 

 Oil Pomace is also valuable in about the same proportion. 



Poudrette is the name given to a commercial fertilizer, 



