THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 179 



SQUASH. These should be 

 planted or started in frames, 

 as recommended for the 

 Cucumbers and Melons al- 

 ready discussed. [ F o r 

 earliest use, plant a few 

 hills of scalloped or crook- 

 neck type of Summer vari- 

 ety. These may be had in Wire-netting supports for Tomato plants 



the bush form, thus taking 



up very little space. There are a few varieties, such as Fordhook 

 and Delicata, which will serve, for both Summer and Whiter use. 

 If the plants are kept well dusted with tobacco or wood ashes during 

 the early stages of growth, it will help to discourage the appearance 

 of the insect likely to attack them. Success of the late or Whiter 

 varieties may be made much more certain by starting them hi paper 

 pots in frames and setting out. The first sign of the deadly Squash 

 borer is likely to be a slight wilting of the leaves on a hot, bright day. 

 Make a thorough examination at once at the base of the stem, and 

 if you find a small hole from which a gummy, yellowish matter has 

 exuded, slit the thin cavity lengthwise until you find the intruder. 

 TOMATOES. Set out the strongest, stockiest plants you can 

 find, even if you have to pay several cents more apiece for them, 

 as soon as danger of late frost is over. A half handful or so of bone 

 or guano in each hill will produce a strong start. However, 

 a little chicken manure, or a well rotted compost may be used for 

 this purpose. Set the plants deep, even if you cover several niches 

 of stem, as new roots will be formed all the way up, and you will 

 be better prepared, therefore, for dry weather. For garden Culture 

 the plants should be supported by stakes, a trellis, or the specially 

 prepared circular Tomato supports now available. Set them from 

 18 in to 2 ft. apart, according to method of training to be pursued. 

 Two dozen plants or so, if they are well cared for, will provide an 

 abundance of fruit for the average family. To get the earliest and 

 the smoothest fruits, keep the vines tied up with raffia, strips of 

 cloth, or soft twine, as they grow. The side shoots or suckers should 

 be rubbed off as soon as they appear, the plant being trained to three 

 or four branches. By this method the fruits which do set will have 

 more nourishment and more sunshine than if the vines are allowed 

 to grow bushy. The newly set plants must be protected from cut- 

 worms with paper collars or poison baits, but strong, pot-grown 

 plants are likely to defy them, as they are too large and tough to be 

 eaten through readily. Just before danger of frost pick all the 



