FISHES. 517 



came from the North, until we gave encouragement to the im- 

 portation of it from North America. From thence we are very 

 well supplied J but it is said, not with such good fish as those 

 imported from the North of Europe. 



A very great trade is also carried on with the roe of the stur- 

 geon, preserved in a particular manner, and called Caviar : it is 

 made from the roe of all kinds of sturgeon, but particularly the 

 second. This is much more in request in other countries of 

 Europe than with us. To all these high-relished meats, the 

 appetite must be formed by degrees ; and though formerly, even 

 in England, it was very much in request at the politest tables, it 

 is at present sunk entirely into disuse. It is still, however, a 

 considerable merchandise among the Turks, Greeks, and Vene- 

 tians. Caviar somewhat resembles soft soap in consistence ; 

 but it is of a brown, uniform colour, and is eaten as cheese with 

 bread. The manner of making it is this : they take the spawn 

 from the body of the sturgeon — for it is to be observed, the stur- 

 geon differs from other cartilaginous lish, in that it has spawn 

 like a cod, and not eggs like a ray. They take the spawn, I 

 say, and freeing it from the small membranes that connect it to- 

 gether, they wash it witli vinegar, and afterwards spread it to dry 

 upon a table ; they then put them into a vessel with salt, break- 

 ing the spawn with their hands, and not with a pestle ; this done, 

 tliey put it into a canvass bag, letting the liquor drain from it ; 

 lastly, they put it into a tub, with holes in the bottom, so that, 

 if there be any moisture still remaining, it may run out ; then it 

 is pressed down, and covered up close for use. 



But the Huso or Isinglass fish furnishes a still more valuable 

 commodity. This fish is caught in great quantities in the Da- 

 nube, from tlie month of October to January : it is seldom under 

 fifty pounds weight, and often alxjve four hundred : its flesh is 

 soft, glutinous, and flabby ; but it is sometimes salted, which 

 makes it better tasted, and then it turns red like siUmon. It is 

 for the conmiodity it furnishes that it is cliiefly taken. Isinglass 

 is of a whitish substance, inclining to a yellow, done up into 

 rolls, and so exported for use. It is very well known as ser- 

 viceable, not only in medicine, but many arts. Tlie varnisher, 

 the wine-merchant, and even the clothier, know its uses ; and 

 very great sums are yearly expended upon this single article of 

 commerce. Tlie manner of making it is this : they take the 



HI. 2 X. 



