ALMS SHAD. 119 



to the north of England, but it is not mentioned by Nilsson 

 as occurring in Sweden; although the kindred Twait Shad is 

 found there. And this circumstance of its absence so far to 

 the north agrees with the observation of Aristotle, that the 

 Thrissa was not an inhabitant of the Euripus, as not being 

 able to bear the cold. It is probable that what brought it into 

 particular notice in ancient times, in addition to its habit of 

 passing up the larger rivers from the sea in the spring, and 

 soon again disappearing from view, was its supposed disposition 

 of being particularly liable to the impression of sounds ; especially 

 such as are of a pleasing nature. It was the popular belief 

 that they might be brought together by music; which opinion 

 is recorded by iElian and other writers, and strongly counte- 

 nanced by Rondeletius in his own experience ; and it was further 

 supposed that they were so affrighted with the roar of thunder, 

 as to be driven by it back again from the river into the sea. 

 There has always been a diversity of opinion about the 

 quality of this fish as food; but this is known to depend on 

 the place where they are caught, and the length of time they 

 have been in the river; for when taken in the sea they are 

 little valued, and the multitude of small bones with which the 

 flesh is studded, is sufficient to banish all pleasure in eating 

 it when there is no delicious taste to counterbalance the 

 annoyance. It was in this condition that Ausonius prefers to 

 call it by its more vulgar, but now recognised name, and 

 pronounces it as notoriously unfit for any other table than that 

 of the common people; "who does not know those frizzing, 

 sputtering fish on every poor man's grate! 



Quia non norit 



Stridentesque focis opsonia plebis alausas ?" 



But in some rivers a change of quality is soon effected, and 

 then it is esteemed a fit repast for the epicure. . Those of largest 

 size are said to be found in Spain and the south of France, 

 but the most delicious of the foreign rivers are those of Italy, 

 and especially of the Tiber. In our own country the Severn 

 has long possessed the character of affording Shads of a high 

 degree of excellency, for which a regular fishery is carried on, 

 of so much value that it forms one third, or, according to some 

 evidence, an half of the profit derived from the fish of all sorts 



