PROPAGATION BY BUDDING AND GRAFTING. 73 



The buds are inserted somewhat higher than usual and 

 the bract leaves are left on the stock below the bud-inser- 

 tion. As soon as the bud is inserted a part of the top is 

 cut back. In eight or ten days the tying is cut and the 

 top cut back, but a stub is left, as shown in Fig. 40, to 

 which the growing shoot is tied. In this Southern method 

 the bud-sticks are cut as wanted, as in August-budding at 

 the North, where growth is not wanted until the next 

 spring. 



At the North, spring-budding is done on established 

 stocks one or two years old, using dormant bud-sticks cut 

 the previous autumn or winter. They are kept dormant 

 until the bark peels well by covering with sawdust over 

 ice. The buds are inserted somewhat higher than usual, 

 leaving the bract leaves on below. In cutting the bud is 

 left longer than usual above. After shoving to place the 

 extra length is cut off at the cross-cut of the T. The top 

 is cut back in part when the budding is done, and when 

 the tying is cut still more is taken off, leaving quite a long 

 stub with leaves, on to which the growing shoot is tied. 

 Trees three to four feet high well branched are grown in 

 this way the season the buds are put in. In top-working 

 trees set the preceding year in orchard, this plan gives 

 growth the same season. 



Where the citrus fruits are grown, bearing seedling 

 trees are budded in this way by cutting back the tops early 

 the previous season, developing new shoots in which the 

 buds are inserted. In the propagation of species on which 

 the young shoots are very small, the buds are cut from 

 two-year-old wood in spring-budding. This is done 

 usually with the cut-leaved birch, leaving a long spur 

 clothed with leaves at first, to which the growing shoot 

 from the bud is tied to keep it erect. 



77. Ring-budding. This old European mode of bud- 



