128 HORTICULTURAL MANUAL. 



are desired. In this case keep the side limbs clipped on 

 the stem, but keep in mind that the stem leaves give stocky 

 growth and the large stem a top-heavy growth. The 

 second year the top is formed on root-grafted trees, using 

 care to secure a central ascending stem with radiating 

 branches (27) without forking. The second season also the 

 leaves should be left on the stem to give the required stocki- 

 ness. The needed sprouting at the crown and cutting 

 away the branchlets that appear on the stem, together with 

 shaping the top, are the main essentials of pruning in 

 nursery. 



142. Proper Time for Pruning in Nursery and Young 

 Orchard. Where light pruning is done in nursery or 

 young orchard the best time is when the leaves are about 

 two thirds grown. This begins the period of active cell- 

 growth and favors the rapid healing of the wound. While 

 it is true that pruning in the season of growth is theoreti- 

 cally a check on circulation and subsequent growth, yet 

 on young, excitable trees under cultivation the light 

 pruning at one time amounts to little in checking growth 

 and is far more than offset by the rapid and smooth heal- 

 ing of the wounds. But the best time for pruning varies 

 as applied for varied purposes. 



The dormant season is essential for cutting back grow- 

 ing wood severely, removing large limbs, or where stunted 

 trees are o:it back to secure vigorous new growth, and 

 where stunted branches are cut back to secure active 

 growth and larger leafage. Summer pruning checks 

 growth and tends to lower vitality. Yet it often is prac- 

 tised to hasten the fruit-bearing period of orchard trees 

 and to give more bearing wood on shrubs that blossom on 

 the preceding year's growth. 



143. Pruning Young Apple and Pear Orchards. Only 

 5 few years ago the advice given in the fruit books of 



