TIFLIS. 219 



cent chandelier of the horns of the ' ollen ' (Russian 

 red deer) in the Professor's dining-room. The 

 sight of this led to my being told that at Borghom, 

 the shooting-box of the Grand Duke, the whole of 

 the furniture throughout is made entirely of red 

 deer's horns or other trophies of the chase. 



After the Museum, the (to me) most interest- 

 ing sight was the Tartar bazaar. Here it was 

 my intention to purchase an entire native outfit in 

 which I might travel without exciting attention, as 

 I should have done had I worn European clothes, 

 were it only my moleskin shooting-jacket. Our 

 consul kindly volunteered to pilot me ; but before 

 starting on such an errand as the one in hand, cer- 

 tain preparations were necessary amongst which 

 huge boots reaching above the knee, to enable us 

 to wade with comfort through the mud, and 

 old clothes on our backs to blind the avaricious 

 Armenians, were perhaps the chief. The Tartar 

 ba/aar is a network of extremely narrow streets 

 lying near the Kfir, in which everything is sold 

 and every race assists in the selling. Each street 

 has its speciality : one is the bootmakers' road, 

 another the silversmiths' or armourers' ; here only 

 vegetables and game are sold, there furs are the 

 only commodities exposed for sale. And this 

 system has its advantages, for you can in one 

 glance take in all the goods of any particular kind 

 which the bazaar contains. The whole choice of 



