EN ROUTE FOR DAGHESTAN. 253 



scented water was brought me by my host, find, 

 having washed my hands in it, he and his friends 

 performed their own ablutions, though, their hands 

 being all stained brown with some dye in use 

 amongst them for the purpose, the washing had but 

 little apparent effect. I noticed that all the Tar- 

 tars and other inhabitants of Lesghia dyed their 

 hands in this manner. 



After the bowl had gone its rounds, some game 

 I had shot, together with one of the chickens of 

 Gerdaoul and a huge tray of boiled rice, was 

 brought in. Everything was handed to me by 

 the host himself, and his courtesy went so far that 

 with his brown fingers he dexterously tore the 

 fowl to pieces, and selecting the best, offered 

 them to me. These people employed no table 

 utensils except the silver bowl to wash in and the 

 silver tray on which fowl, rice, and raisins, fried 

 in butter, were all served en masse. Every one 

 helped himself in turn from the dish with his 

 fingers, rolling the rice into a neat ball so as to 

 scarcely drop a grain. Gladly would I have done 

 the same, but for the first day or two I fancy 

 more rice went down my neck than down my 

 throat. The meal was followed by some capital 

 native wine, at which my Lesghian guide looked 

 askance, although I found afterwards that his 

 scruples were not troublesome except in public, 



