SOU-CHEOU-FOU. 389 



cautious and jealous, and were, at the period of my visit, so 

 much intimidated by the presence of a rebel force encamped 

 at no great distance, that the attempt would have been more 

 difficult and hazardous than ever. We navigated the canal 

 (having a good view of everything through the windows of 

 our cabin without being seen ourselves) through the suburban 

 parts of the city for several hours, amidst junks of all sizes 

 and descriptions, and amidst houses, buildings, warehouses, 

 and shops swarming with human beings of both sexes. At 

 many of the windows, composed of trellis work or a sort of 

 enclosed balcony, groups of gaudily apparelled females were 

 gaily ogling the passengers by the different boats, or smoking 

 their long pipes, presenting a picture very similar in appear- 

 ance to what we have always been accustomed to regard 

 with wonder and admiration on our dinner or tea-services in 

 England. 



The male part of the population were following their 

 various callings with all the noise, bustle, and activity which 

 characterize this extraordinary nation, and the sounds that 

 met our ears, the sights that greeted our eyes, and the scents 

 that invaded our nostrils, formed a sum total of abominations 

 that went far to realize the most florid descriptions of 

 Chinese life. 



After many concussions, obstructions, and stoppages we 

 encountered amidst this chaos of boats, mercantile establish- 

 ments, and other impediments, in a comparatively narrow 

 canal, we emerged after some hours' navigation into a broader 

 channel, and obtained a view of the turreted walls of the 

 city, embracing many miles in extent, even on the side from 

 which we could catch a glimpse of it. A broad fosse or 

 moat surrounded it, on each side of which gardens and 

 orchards appeared to be cultivated with care; groves of 

 trees, and stately pagodas rose up in relief far above the 

 ramparts, and tantalized us with the wish to penetrate 



