9 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW Til KM 



by years of shallow culture. The preparation should continue dur- 

 ing the following summer, and can often be made both thorough 

 and profitable by the growth of a summer "hoed crop," the culture 

 of which will kill out many weeds and secure good pulverization of 

 the soil. If no summer crop is grown, the land should be kept in 

 cultivation by plowing the weeds under as long as the surface soil 

 retains moisture enough to start them. A special advantage of such 

 summer-fallow in regions where the rainfall is apt to be short is 

 that, prevention of evaporation, the trees or vines set the following 

 winter will have a good part of the rainfall of two seasons to grpw 

 with, and the result will often be very noticeable. If there are sup- 

 plies of manure available, as is often found in old corrals on oin 

 grain or stock farms, it is better to gather and apply this the winter 

 before the planting of the trees. If this work is not done, then it 

 should be left until after the trees are planted, and then be spread 

 upon the surface during the winter, and plowed in after it has been 

 in part leached into the soil by the rains. Application should be 

 made evenly all over the surface and not massed around the roots 

 of the trees, unless it is to be applied as a mulch to the surface 

 after the spring cultivation is over, as will be considered later. 



If it is thought desirable to plant the land immediately after 

 breaking up, put in the plows as early in the fall as it is possible to 

 do deep work, that is, to plow to a depth of ten or twelve inches, 

 or more. Harrow thoroughly. If it is still early, cross-plow for 

 fruit. Thorough and deep breaking up as soon as practicable to 

 plow in the fall,, and also deeply when the land pulverizes well, and 

 follow in the furrow with the subsoil plow, working to a depth of 

 fourteen inches or more. For this kind of work good teams are 

 needed, and the plow should be sharp and bright. If the work is 

 hard for the team, set the plow so as to take less land, but do not 

 sacrifice the depth. Harrow again thoroughly, and the land is ready 

 for the trees or vines. 



Avoiding Dead Furrows. Unless dead furrows can be used to 

 advantage for surface drainage in case of heavy rain-storms, it 

 will be of decided convenience in laying off to have the field free 

 from them. This can, of course, be secured by beginning the final 

 plowing at a line in the center of the field, turning all furrows in- 

 wards. In this case, too, if a right-hand plow is used, the team will 

 always turn on unplowed land, and thus avoid trampling upon and 

 packing the loose soil. The slight ridge in the center of the field 

 formed by the first two furrows can be easily leveled by a couple 

 of back furrows, and when properly harrowed the field will be found 

 smooth as a floor for staking out for planting. 



