RULES FOR WINTER PRUNING ^25 



;wenty-four inches. This gives about twice the distance between 

 ;he main branches which was formerly allowed, and it is of vast 

 idvantage to the strength of the tree. The illustrations of this fact 

 ire from trees planted by the writer in 1887 to test this matter. At 

 this date they are large trees and show the forms of heads resulting 

 from different spacing of branches on the young trees during the 

 first summer's growth. 



First, then, cut back the tree just after planting, as shown in the 

 engraving, deciding first at what height you wish your trees to form 

 heads, and cut them all back as uniformly as possible and still secure 

 a good bud just below the point of cutting. To preserve these buds 

 the trees should be handled carefully while removing from the 

 nursery and during planting. 



If the tree has already grown laterals where the head is desired, 

 three or four of these properly placed on the stem may be selected 

 to form the main branches, shortened in to the sound bud nearest the 

 stem, and other laterals, not desired to form the head, removed. 

 This treatment is shown in the engraving of a young peach tree well 

 branched in the nursery. If all the laterals on the young tree have 

 started out above where the head is desired, as is sometimes the 

 case, it may be necessary to remove the whole top, and usually 

 others will start below afterwards. If there are no buds visible on 

 the stem at the place where the head is desired, the choice 

 must be made between heading the tree higher up, where the 

 buds are, or cutting back without regard to buds, trusting 

 to the development of latent buds at the right place, or to 

 the growth of a shoot from below, which can be cut back to form a 

 head the following year. It is for this reason, among others, that 

 planters prefer a yearling tree which has not branched, but has good 

 buds all along the stem. Peaches and apricots usually branch in 

 the nursery but usually have dormant buds at the bases of such 

 branches which can be employed in making new growth where it is 

 desired. 



After cutting back at planting, the shoots desired to form the 

 head are allowed to make their full growth without interference. 

 All shoots not desired for branches are pinched off after growing out 

 two or three inches, leaving a bunch of leaves to shade the trunk 

 and contribute to its stouter growth. Constant watchfulness is 

 necessary to pinch off undesirable branches all the first summer. 



First Pruning. In the winter following planting, the shoots of 

 the previous season's growth are cut back to about ten or twelve 

 inches from their junction with the stem. Some prefer to cut 

 shorter, but this is apt to huddle the branches too close together 

 when they get old and stout. Growers, however, do not agree on the 

 exact length which these future main branches should be left at the 

 first pruning. 



