134 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



which is the outer edge of the little collar or swelling which will 

 be found at the base of all branches, enables the wound to grow 

 over quickly, and if the wound is properly treated when cut, there 

 will be no decay, and the wound will soon be obliterated. 



In amputating large branches, an undercut with the saw should 

 be made first so that the bark shall not be torn as the branch 

 falls. Another good way is to saw off first at a distance from the 

 final cut and then saw off smoothly at the right place when the 

 weight is removed. 



Trees often become "hide-bound," as it is called. Especially 

 in this dry climate the bark gets dry and tough, therefore can 

 not expand in proportion to the growth of the tree, or supply 

 the amount of sap necessary for the demand. Slitting such trees 

 here and there up and down the trunk and main limbs with a 

 sharp knife seems to have good effect, for often in three months 

 the cut opens half an inch, and a fine, clear bark, with an increase 

 of growth, results. On old trees, too, there is often a growth of 

 moss and lichens which should be removed. This -can be done 

 by scraping off the rough, loose bark and spraying with an alka- 

 line wash, composed of one pound of caustic soda or potash to 

 six gallons of water. If scale insects are present, the lime, salt 

 and sulphur spray should be used, as will be described in the 

 chapter on injurious insects. This will remove the parasites, 

 give the trees a clean, bright bark and contribute to their vigor. 



PRUNING TOOLS 



There is some difference of opinion as to the comparative 

 value of the pruning knife and the pruning shears. The knife, 

 if sharp, and well used, makes a smooth cut, with no bruising of 

 the bark, and such a wound heals over perfectly. The shears, if 

 of good pattern and sharp, also make a very good cut, but there 

 is always some little injury to the bark on the side opposite to the 

 entry of the blade. On small cuts, say three-quarters of an inch 

 or less, if the blade is kept very sharp, the resistance does not 

 make sufficient injury to the bark to seriously consider, and the 

 speed with which the shears can be used renders them the main 

 reliance for all the smaller pruning. Nearly all styles of hand 

 shears are used in this State. 



There are, also, two-hand shears, which are very powerful, 

 and enable one to work very quickly. When kept well sharpened 

 they are very effective tools. There are a number of styles in 

 use, both home-made and imported. 



Still another arrangement of shears is mounted on a pole, the 

 cutting blade being operated by a cord, and having a spring to 

 throw the blade back. The pole is jointed, so that one or more 

 lengths can be used. With this device one can stand on the ground 

 and shorten in the top shoots of a tree very handily. 



