PRUNING THE APRICOT 249 



Pruning the apricot requires some skill and considerable judgment, which 

 can only be formed by experience and observation of the habits of the tree. 

 Trees of four to five feet in height are preferable for planting, and when 

 planted should be trimmed to a single stem and cut off at eighteen inches 

 from the ground. These will throw out shoots vigorously and frequently two 

 or three shoots from one bud. These shoots should be thinned out, leaving 

 not more than four or five, no two of which should come from one bud, nor 

 be directly opposite. The first shoot should start twelve inches from the 

 ground, the .others in such a manner as to divide the space and make the 

 branches balance, leaving the top shoot to form the central part of the tree. 



It will be necessary to go over the trees several times the first year to 

 remove shoots that may start where not wanted, but no general heading back 

 should be done, as it tends to dwarf the tree; though if some of the limbs 

 are making an overgrowth they should be pinched back to keep the head 

 balanced. 



The pruning of the second year should be done in January, as the tree 

 will not be dormant until then, if it has been kept in a thrifty condition. The 

 first year's growth should be cut back to within five to ten inches of the 

 body of the tree, and all forks should be cut out, even if it necessitates form- 

 ing a new head, as it is much better to lose some growth on a young tree than 

 to take the risk of splitting down when the tree begins to bear fruit. 



When the shoots start for the second year's growth, take off all that come 

 on the under side of the limbs and thin to one, two, or three, as may be 

 needed to balance the tree, bearing in mind that an apricot tree inclines toward 

 the coast breezes in this locality. 



The second year will require much more attention than the first year, in 

 order to keep off suckers and all lateral growth that may start on the under 

 side of the new limbs, the object being to make the limbs grow as nearly upright 

 as possible. The remark on heading back holds good for the second year also. 

 The trees will become dormant earlier the second year than they did the 

 first, but should not be trimmed earlier than December, and a month later is 

 preferable, as the ends of the limbs are not exposed to the drying winds 

 so long before the sap begins to flow and consequently will heal over better. 

 The second year's growth should now be cut back to within fifteen to twenty 

 inches of the old wood, except the central stem, which may be left twenty- 

 four to thirty inches long, depending on the number of laterals it may have 

 thrown out. When the new shoots start they should again be thinned down 

 to two or three on each limb, and all taken off that tend to turn down or 

 out at right angles, but do not take off the fruit spurs. 



The trees will need to be gone over about three times before July to 

 remove suckers and lateral growth that may start on the lower side of the 

 limbs, as the tendency in the third year is to make an immense growth of 

 downward laterals, and these must be taken off so as to develop wood that is 

 to be left for fruit. If the orchard is on good land and has been properly 

 irrigated and cultivated, the trees should now be large enough to begin to 

 yield fruit. The object in trimming during the first two years and the first 

 half of the third year has been to grow a vigorous upright tree, with strong 

 limbs, capable of carrying a heavy load of large fruit, and to get the fruit as 

 close to the body of the tree as possible. 



There will be a few specimens of the fruit the third year, and as soon as 

 these are gathered the trees should be summer pruned for the first time, care 

 being taken that the land shall have been allowed to become moderately dry 

 so that the trees may be partially dormant. If the downward growth of the 

 laterals has been kept cut off, all that remains to be done is to cut off about 

 one-half of all this season's growth all over the tree, using the same judgment 

 as before with reference to prevailing winds and symmetry of tree. If this 

 is properly done and water at once turned on the orchard, a new growth 

 will- be made and the fruit buds for next year fully developed. 



The only pruning necessary in the following winter will be to take out 

 any cross limbs and sprouts that may have been overlooked in the summer. 



After the trees begin to produce regular crops they will not grow so 

 vigorously, and the numerous primings of the first three years will not be 



