350 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



Other forms of dibbles for planting vine cuttings relate par- 

 ticularly to the setting of cutting-grafts in a light deeply-worked 

 nursery soil, but may be also used to advantage in placing cut- 

 tings in the vineyard if the soil favors such a method. They are 

 described by Mr. Bioletti as follows : 



Two of the best forms of nursery dibbles are shown in the 

 engraving. The first, A, consists of a piece of round one-half-inch 

 iron, 18 inches long, furnished with a wooden handle at one end 

 and a curved double point with a V-shaped cleft in the other. 

 The bottom node of the stock is caught in the cleft and the graft 

 forced down to the desired depth. Unless the ground is very 

 light the other dibble, B, is preferable. It consists of a sword- 

 shaped piece of iron 18 to 20 inches long and 2 inches wide, fur- 

 nished also with a handle. The usual way of using it is to press 

 it into the ground to the desired depth, open the hole a little with 

 a lateral thrust, withdraw it and insert the graft. The dibble 

 is then pushed into the ground again at about an inch to one side 

 of the graft and by another lateral thrust the earth is pressed 

 tightly around the graft. This takes more time than is necessary 

 with the other form of dibble, and usually done carefully there is 

 danger of failing to make the soil close around the base of the 

 stock, which is thus left surrounded by an air space. Grafts 

 left in this way are apt to become moldy and fail to make good 

 roots. The figure C is a planting dibble to be used with hand 

 and foot like a spade. All such contrivances are only suited to 

 light soils which crumble and settle easily. On heavier soils, 

 digging holes and placing the soil around the roots or the base 

 of the cutting by hand is indispensable. 



Planting Bar and Sheep's-foot. The following methods, 

 described by Dr. Gustav Eisen as prevailing in the raisin districts 

 of the San Joaquin Valley, on sandy, loamy soils, will well illus- 

 trate similar methods wherever followed : 



The planting bar consists of a bar of hard iron, sharpened at the lower end 

 and furnished with a cross-handle at the other. The length of the bar is about 

 three and a half feet, width about two and a half inches, and thickness a third to 

 half an inch. If less than this the bar will bend. The planting is done by pushing 

 the bar perpendicularly in the ground. After withdrawing it, insert the cutting 

 and push it down to the bottom. Fill up the hole by again inserting the bar, in 

 the ground close by and pressing the flat side against the hole. 



The sheep's-foot consists of a round rod with cross-handle at the upper end. 

 The lower end of the rod is slightly flattened, bent, and forked. The planting is 

 done by fitting the forked end over the butt-end of the cutting, and immediately 

 pushing cutting and rod together to the desired depth in the soil. A slight twist 

 is now given to the sheep's-foot. This loosens it from the cutting and allows it 

 to be withdrawn. A tamp with the foot fills the hole. Great care must be taken 

 in withdrawing the sheep's-foot, lest in doing so the cutting should be lifted also, 

 and this will leave a fatal air chamber at the lower end. The slight twist given 

 the rod before withdrawing loosens it and leaves the cutting undisturbed. 



