BUDDING AND GRAFTING THE FIG 



385 



ded in, and from a branch of the year, or preceding one, well in sap, 

 and having about the same diameter as the stock. This ring should 

 have on it one or two buds. It must fit exactly the space prepared 

 on the stock, and more particularly at the lower circular cut, so that 

 both barks will exactly unite at that point. When the ring is too 

 long, a little bit of it might be cut off with a very sharp knife till it 

 fits well ; if the ring is too large for the stock, a longitudinal strip 

 would be cut out, and if too narrow, such a strip, if with a bud on 

 so much the better, will have to be used to fill up the empty space. 

 One must be very careful while drawing the knife around the stock 

 not to go too deep into the wood to injure the cambium layer, or to 

 weaken the stock. Tie a bandage pretty firmly over the whole. 

 After two or three weeks the bandage has to be taken off, and, in 

 the ensuing spring, the top of the stock or limb is cut down three 

 inches above the budding. 



Another way of working such trees is by "whistle budding," 

 which is done in the spring, when the sap is well up. The stock and 

 scion must be both of the same size and well in sap. The top of the 

 stock is cut down to several inches from the ground ; a circular ring 

 of bark is then taken off, and a corresponding ring from the scion, 

 but without a longitudinal cut, is put in its place. In inserting it 

 care should be taken that the top of the stock, which is to receive 

 the ring from the scion, be very smooth, and the latter is then easily 

 pushed down around it and bandaged. In the case of the fig, it is 

 especially desirable to use the latter method when the sap is up, 

 because if the top of the stock is not removed, the exudation from 

 above sours around the bud and prevents the union of stock and 

 bud. 



To prepare an old tree for budding over, the limbs may be cut 

 back in February within two to six feet of the trunk, covering the 

 ends with paint of grafting wax. Allow two shoots to start near 

 the end of each of these amputated limbs, and rub off all other 

 shoots. Bud the shoots when they attain the thickness of one's 

 finger, taking green buds from the growth it is desired to introduce, 

 or let them grow and bud in the fall, whichever is most convenient ; 

 or bud in the growing shoot, and rebud in the fall where buds have 

 failed. 



Grafting the Fig. The fig can be grafted by the cleft-graft 

 method, as described in Chapter IX, but the cleft should be made to 

 one side of the stub and not through the central pith. Especial 

 care must be taken in excluding the air. Fill the cleft between the 

 scions with warm wax, which will run in and fill the cavity. Then 

 bind the stock with wax bands, taking the greatest care to cover 

 the exposed wood surface, the cut end of the bark (which in the fig 

 is very prone to shrink and draw back), and as far down the stock 

 as the bark has been split. 



