402 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



is not removed, then the bud can not take, as the wood in it pre- 

 vents the two barks (the inner bark of the bud and the inner 

 bark of the stock) from uniting. When the wood has been partly 

 removed from the bud, the bud is inserted into the stock, as bud- 

 ding is done in the regular, ordinary way, and tied tight. A small 

 tip-twig may be used or a longer twig, cut back to the lowest 

 bud and part of the foliage cut away, as shown in the engraving. 

 At the end of three or four weeks the string is removed, and part 



Olive: Twig-Bud inserted. 



of the top of the stock is cut back to force the bud to start. As 

 the bud grows, the foliage of the stock is gradually removed, 

 until the bud is able to take up the entire flow of sap ; it is then 

 left to grow, and it may be protected by tying to a long stub of 

 the branch which may be left for that purpose above the point 

 of insertion. When the bud has grown out strongly, what remains 

 of the stock above the bud is cut smooth, close to the bud, to allow 

 it to heal over. 



GRAFTING THE OLIVE 



Grafting is also used in working over both large and small 

 olive trees. Good success can sometimes be had with the ordinary 

 method of top grafting, as described in Chapter IX, using scions 

 not larger than a lead pencil and inserting them in April. The 

 olive can also be successfully grafted in the bark according to 

 the method shown in Chapter IX. This graft is used for work- 

 ing in the top of the tree, but it may also be used at the surface 

 of the ground, covering the cut surfaces with earth when the 

 scions are in place. The shield grafting to wdiich allusion is made 

 has already been described in the preceding chapter, as it works 

 well with the fig. Judge A. L. Rhodes, of San Jose, gives the 

 following explicit account of his success with this graft : 



