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CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



The stock, where cut off, may be from half to two and one-half inches in 

 diameter; the scion about one-quarter inch in diameter, the lower end to be 

 formed by an oblique cut of about one and one-half inches. Split the bark of 

 the top of the stock about one inch, raise the bark at the sides of the split 

 slightly, insert the point of the scion between the bark and wood of the stock, 

 at the split, and press it down the length of its oblique cut. Fasten it by bind- 

 ing twine around both stock and scion, about ten times, very firmly. Apply 

 grafting wax to top of stock and scion. 



If the bark of the stock be three or more years old, make two slits 

 in it, about one and one-half inches in length, the width between them equaling 

 the width of the oblique cut of the scion, raise the bark between the slits, cut 

 off about half of it by a sloping cut, then insert the scion and press it down, 

 and bind with twine and apply grafting wax, as above directed. Cotton wrap- 

 ping twine is of sufficient strength. 



Stocks the diameter of one inch or more should receive two or more scions. 

 Scions gathered a short time before their insertion are the most successful. 

 The twine around the stock and scion should not be loosened until it indents 

 the bark of the stock. Protect the graft from sun and wind. Wrap paper 

 around stock and scion, the paper to extend a few inches above the scion 

 or place the paper, in the form of a bag, over scion and stock and secure the 

 paper with twine, tied around the stock in a slip-knot. 



Bark grafting may be performed at any time when the bark of the stock 

 can be readily raised whenever the bark will "slip." I grafted in that mode in 

 each week of April and May and the first of June, and in September. Failures 

 not 5 per cent. Twelve scions inserted about the middle of last September 

 are all growing. Shield grafting is the most successful in the spring. I prefer 

 the bark grafting, as the shield buds may not start for months, or even for 

 Si year. 



Side Graft on Small Wood. A satisfactory graft can be 

 made with an oblique cut, as shown in Chapter IX, which is 

 superior to a split of the stock, because on a small stock the split 

 is apt to continue farther than desirable when the scion is pushed 

 in. With the slanting cut in the stock the scion can be firmly 

 pushed into place without splitting. The union of inner barks 

 of scion and stock must be made on one side when the stock is 

 larger than the scion. This graft is tied in and waxed, or a waxed 

 band may be used/ In working small wood at the ground surface, 

 the earth should be drawn up around the graft. 



PLANTING THE OLIVE 



There is nothing gained by planting out the olive too early 

 in the spring. Both cuttings and rooted plants will do better 

 if planted af f er the soil becomes well warmed, and after the heavy 

 rains of the winter are well over. Of course the time when this 

 condition comes is different from year to year, and varies, also, 

 according to locality and situation. During the first summer the 

 young plants will need occasional watering in some situations ; 

 in others, merely mulching, or keeping the surface finely stirred, 

 will suffice. 



Olive trees are planted at different distances, but the ruling 

 intervals are twenty to twenty-five feet. This will allow the trees 

 to bear a number of years before they crowd each other; and then 

 removing alternate trees gives ample distance for future growth. 



