PLANTING THE ORANGE 44^ 



Keep the buds carefully in a damp cloth. Slide the bud upward, above the 

 cross-section. Bind around the bark, steering clear of the buds proper, a 

 wrapping of waxed cloth, already prepared, three-fourths of an inch wide. 

 When enough of this has been wrapped about the tree trunk or branch to 

 keep the bark and the bud in place, rub the end of the muslin strip with the 

 handle of the budding knife, down upon the muslin already wound about the 

 bark. This will hold the waxed wrapping firmly in place. From ten days to 

 two weeks after the buds have been inserted, cut off the entire top of the tree, 

 above the buds, and cover the stump of trunk or large branch with grafting 

 wax applied hot with a brush. 



As soon as the wax is put on and it must be put on as soon as the top 

 is sawed off whitewash the tree, over the waxed cloth, also over the bud, 

 over every part of the tree that is left, except the stump ends, to which the 

 hot wax has been applied. Immediately the buds will begin to grow. From 

 ten days to two weeks after whitewashing take off the muslin wrap, and, if the 

 work has been done carefully, in accordance with the above directions, 90 per 

 cent of the buds will develop perhaps more. A prime necessity for this work 

 is a razor-sharp budding knife. 



There is a variation in practice in cutting back the stock above 

 the bud. Instead of cutting back at once, heroically, as just de- 

 scribed, some girdle the branch or cut back part of the top at a 

 distance above the bud, cutting down to the bud after it shows 

 good strong growth, tying the young growth to the stub at first 

 to protect it. Others insert the bud in the fall, cutting back to start 

 the bud after the fruit on the old top is gathered. It is very im- 

 portant to watch for suckers below the bud and remove, or pinch 

 them back, to make a bunch of leaves. The growth from the bud 

 itself often needs pinching to induce low branching. Twig-budding 

 can also be used on the orange by the method already described for 

 the olive. 



Budding in old trees is best done in the spring, when the sap 

 flow is strong, but, as stated, can be done in the fall and the bud 

 allowed to lit dormant until spring. 



PLANTING ORANGES IN ORCHARD 



As already stated, orange trees are planted out at greater age 

 than deciduous fruit trees. Budded trees are given one or two 

 years' growth in nursery and one or two years' growth on the bud. 

 which, added to the year in seed bed, makes them three to four 

 years of age from the sowing of the seed. Seedlings, to be planted 

 out as such, are allowed two years' growth in the nursery, which 

 makes them three years old from the seed. For this length of time 

 and the unusual care involved in their growth, taking up from nur- 

 sery and preparation for carriage, orange trees of planting age arc 

 of much greater cost than deciduous fruit trees. 



Since the growing of seedlings for their fruit has practically 

 ceased, the distance between the trees in orchard planting has 

 ranged from twenty to twenty-four feet. All the varieties now 

 propagated are quick to bear fruit, and if properly shaped will find 

 ample space in these distances the greater distance on the richer 

 soil as a rule. 



