Cattleya 



( 183 ) 



Cattleya 



of sphagnum, and thru, having made the plant 

 firm if necessary by means of a stick embedded 

 in the crocks, commence at one side and place a 

 compost of two-thirds of fibrous peat to one of 

 sphagnum among the roots, carefully working 

 round the plant. Cattleyas should be raised 

 slightly above the rim of the pot they occupy, 

 and the comport should be made firm. The time 

 to pot Cattleyas is when new roots are being 

 emitted from the young growths, and this rule 

 should be rigidly adhered to. As some species 



at urc. If the piping is ample some bottom air 

 may be admitted all the year round, except during 

 fogs or bitterly cold winds, though in the latter 

 case the lee side of the house can be used. Air 

 should be more largely admitted as the sun gains 

 power. Towards the end of the summer it hns 

 been found a good plan to avoid free ventilation 

 during the day, depending upon the damping oi 

 floors and staging, and upon shading, for a moderate 

 reduction of temperature ; this should be followed 

 by ample bottom and side ventilation, provided 



CATTLEYA LAKIATA VEIIA (Sec p. 184.) 



make a greater length of rhizome each season than 

 others, this must be taken into account when 

 potting, and the diameter of the receptacle regu- 

 lated accordingly. Always allow room for two or 

 three years' expansion of growth, as Cattleyas do 

 not like being disturbed. 



Temperature and Ventilation. Broadly speaking, 

 the temperature of the Cattleya house should be 

 60 by day and 52 to 55 by night during Decem- 

 ber, January, and February ; 05 to 70 by day and 

 60 by night in March and April ; a minimum of 

 70 by day and of (iO by night during May, June. 

 July, August, and September; and 05 to 70 by 

 day and 00 by night during October and Novem- 

 ber. The temperatures given for the colder months 

 are necessarily those produced by fire heat, but 

 advantage should always be taken of sun heat to 

 secure more warmth and give a little extra ventila- 

 tion. Closely connected with the question of heat 

 is that of ventilation, and here it may be remarked 

 that air should be admitted primarily for the 

 purpose of strengthening the plants, and not, as is 

 too often the case, for the reduction of the temper- 



the weather is calm, at night, reducing the air 

 supply again early in the morning. This plan has 

 been followed successfully in several cases, notably 

 in gardens not far inland. 



Moisture and Shading. Give Cattleyas a large 

 supply of water at the roots and in the atmosphere 

 when they are rooting and growing freely, but 

 when growth has finished for the season the less 

 the water-pot is used the better they will be, so- 

 long as the pseudo-bulbs do not shrivel. Damping 

 down stages and paths must be regulated according 

 to the weather and the condition of the plants. 

 Some few species, notably the heat-loving superba, 

 are never really at rest, and consequently must 

 never be dry at the roots. Cattleyas like clear light, 

 and it follows that heavy shading must be avoided : 

 roller blinds of coarse-meshed material, run on 

 supports that keep them 6" or so from the roof 

 glass, are the best, and these should only be let 

 down when there is a danger of sunshine scalding 

 or otherwise harming the young leaves, or causing 

 the flowers to fade rapidly. Shade is not required 

 after the end of September as a rule. 



