Chrysanthemum 



( 208 ) 



Chrysanthemum 



Soil For cuttings use equal parts of turfy loam 



and leaf mould, with about one-sixth of sharp sand. 

 A good compost for young plants is formed of 

 three parts loam, one part leaf mould, and one 

 part decayed manure, with a sprinkling of bone 

 meal and wood ashes, and enough sand to keep the 

 whole open. For the final potting the soil should 

 be coarser in character, and consist of four parts of 

 fibrous loam pulled into pieces about the size of a 

 Walnut, one part of leaf mould, half a part of de- 

 cayed manure, with a dusting each of bone meal, 



the balls, and leave 2" of space below the rim for 

 watering. 



Summer Treatment. Select an open space for 

 the plants, and spread out a layer of ashes on 

 which to stand the pots. Support the growths 

 with stakes, and in order to avoid damage by 

 strong winds, fix a stout post at each end of every 

 row, and stretch two wires between them, one 

 about 3' and the other 5' from the ground. Tie the 

 stakes securely to the wires. Care must be exer- 

 cised in watering, particularly after potting. Over 



Photo: Caascll & Company Ltd. 



JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUM LILY MOUXTFORD (rosy pink). (See p. 210). 



guano, and soot. Add a sprinkling of sand and 

 wood ashes, and small pieces of charcoal Mix 

 the compost well a few days before using. 



Potting. When well rooted transfer the cuttings 

 to 4" pots, and stand the plants near the glass in 

 heated frames, or on a shelf in a cool greenhouse, 

 where air can be given but cold draughts avoided. 

 Give the next shift into 6" pots before the plants 

 get very root-bound, and in March remove them to 

 a cold frame, as the hardier Chrysanthemums are 

 grown the better. In April, or early in May, the 

 plants may be stood outdoors, keeping protective 

 material handy in case of frost, and at the end of 

 the latter month or early in June the final potting 

 may be done, using pots from 8" to 10" in diameter. 

 Drain the pots carefully, press the soil firmly round 



supplies are injurious, but the plants should not 

 suffer through drought. Syringing is beneficial in 

 the afternoons of hot days. 



Feeding and Top-dressing. Little feeding is 

 necessary till the flowering pots are well filled with 

 roots. Liquid from sheep and horse manure, and 

 clear soot water, are beneficial, and artificial manun 

 may also be given by way of a change. Manorial 

 waterings should be weak to begin with, and 

 increase in strength as the flowering stage is 

 approached. About the middle of August a top- 

 dressing of material similar to that used for potting, 

 but richer in manure, will encourage surface rooting 

 and strengthen the plants. About 1" of fresh 

 compost should be added, pressed firm, and watered 

 through a fine rose. 



