Chrysanthemum 



( 209 ) 



Chrysanthemum 



The Selection of Buds. When the aim of the 

 grower is to obtain large blooms for exhibition and 

 other purposes, the timing and selection of the 

 buds is an operation requiring care and study. A 

 bud is said to be " taken " when it is selected to 

 form the future flower, but the time for this opera- 

 tion, and the character of the bud, are governed by 

 the habits of different varieties, season, and time of 

 propagation. Some varieties require pinching at 

 an early stage, but others may be allowed to grow 

 and naturally form a small bud, usually appearing in 

 April or May, which is called the " break " bud, 

 because from this point the plant breaks into new 

 growth. This bud, being useless, is rubbed out, and 

 several shoots are grown on. At the end of July 

 or early in August buds are again formed, which 

 are termed "first crown" buds. If the time of 

 formation is suitable, the shoots round this bud are 

 removed, and it is " taken " to form the flower. 

 By pinching out the first crown bud and retaining 

 several of the surrounding shoots other buds are 

 formed in a few weeks called " second crowns." 

 With most varieties this bud is the one "taken." 

 In a few instances, however, it is necessary to pinch 

 out the second crown bud and allow the shoots to 

 grow. In the autumn they produce buds called 

 "terminals," which mark the termination of the 

 plant's growth. Generally speaking, the second 

 crown buds produce the best flowers. The largest 

 and bast-shaped bud should always be selected, 

 and the smaller ones surrounding it rubbed off. 



Treatment of Bush Plants. To obtain handsome 

 specimens for decoration, and plenty of flowers for 

 cutting, the growths must be pinched from time to 

 time to encourage a bushy habit. Pinch out the 

 points of the shoots in March or April, and again 

 when the subsequent growths are G" long. One or 

 two other pinchings mav follow, but the last 

 stopping should be at the end of June or early in 

 the following month. The growths should be 

 staked out carefully to prevent them from being 

 damaged by wind. (See Selection of Decorative 

 Varieties.) 



Treatment of Dwarf Plants. An interesting 

 phase of Chrysanthemum culture is the production 

 of large blooms on dwarf plants. The best method 

 is to strike cuttings in March and April, and by 

 growing the plants in 6" and 7" pots, and securing 

 crown buils, effective specimens are obtained. 

 Another method is to cut back early struck 

 plants to within 6" of the soil at the end of May 

 or early in June. Take up three or four shoots that 

 break from below, and select the first crown buds, 

 which usually appear about the middle or end of 

 August. 



Autumn Treatment. At the end of September, 

 or early in October, the plants must be removed to 

 their winter quarters. A light, airy house is the 

 best, where a temperature of from 50 to 55 is 

 maintained. Vater with care as the season 

 advances. A little fire heat, with free ventila- 

 tion, is necessary to dispel dam)). A dry atmo- 

 sphere, with plenty of air, but avoiding cold 

 draughts, is wiiat the plants require during the 

 flowering period. 



Early-flowering Chrysanthemums. Not the 

 least useful and effective are the varieties grown 

 fur flowering in the open in late summer and early 

 autuum. Cultivation is simple, and they are useful 

 alike for bedding purposes and providing cut 

 flowers. February and March are the months for 

 striking cuttings, and the young plants should be 



given cool treatment, and transferred to the beds 

 and borders in May. By planting firmly, watering 

 in dry weather, and attending to other cultural 

 details, a bright display of bloom may be obtained 

 outdoors from August onwards to the time when 

 plants under glass commence flowering. (Sec 

 Selection of Early -flowering Varieties.) 



Diseases and Enemies. Mildew. A cold, damp 

 atmosphere, both before and after the plants are 

 housed, is largely responsible for the presence of 

 mildew. Dust affected parts with flowers of 

 sulphur, and after housing the plants maintain a 

 dry atmosphere by means of a little fire heat and 

 adequate ventilation. Syringe the plants with 

 sulphide of potassium at the rate of 1 oz. dissolved 

 in 2 gallons of water, before housing. 



Rust. This name is applied to a peculiar red- 

 fruited fungus (Puccinia Hieracii) which has given 

 considerable trouble of late years by affecting the 

 foliage. The increase of the fungus is rapid, and 

 eradication difficult. Many remedies have been 

 tried, with varying degrees of success. Avoid 

 propagating from infected plants. When the rust 

 appears, isolate the affected specimens ; pick off 

 the diseased leaves and burn them. To check the 



ASEMOXE-PLOWEllEl) CHRYSANTHEMUM 1.ADY 



TEMPLE (colour, terra-cotta). (See p. 211.) 



fungus, spray the plants with sulphide of potassium 

 at the rate recommended for mildew, on two or 

 three occasions. Another remedy is that of spray- 

 ing the plants with a paraffin emulsion. Bordeaux 

 Mixture has been used with good effect in the 

 form of a spray. (For instructions on mixing the 

 latter, see BORDEAUX MIXTURE.) 



Aphi*. Both black and green fly infest the 

 young shoots of plants throughout the growing 

 season, and should be checked as soon as they are 

 discovered. Dust affected plants outdoors with 

 tobacco powder. Syringe with a solution of 

 Quassia and soft soap. When the plants are 

 housed fumigate with an approved vaporiser. 



