Orchard 



Orchard House 



wise the trees will dwindle and die, a prey to 

 lichen, insect pests, ami canker. It is a mistake 

 to plant young trees on the site occupied by old 

 ones, without thorough preparation of the soil. 

 Such preparation usually means digging holes at 

 least 3' deep, and 2' wider than tho spread of the 

 roots, and planting in fresh material. This 

 demands a good deal of labour, but without it the 

 young trees will not flourish. 



Time and Manner of Planting. Generally speak- 

 ing, the best time to plant trees is about the end of 

 October and the beginning of November, for the 

 soil is still warm and moist, so that cut roots soon 

 heal, and produce fresh fibres. Any time from the 

 end of October until the beginning of March 

 will do, and the actual time will depend as much 

 upon the convenience of the planter as upon the 

 state of the weather and condition of the ground. 

 Planting in frosty weather is undesirable, and it is 

 folly to attempt it during a wet spell. The stems 

 of standard orchard trees should be 5' to 7' in height 

 clear from the ground. The space given to them 

 varies considerably. As much as 30' between the 

 trees is recommended in some cases, but on an 

 average about 25' is enough. Or they may be 

 planted 10' to 15' apart, and alternate trees 

 taken out as growth calls for more space. A 

 favourite market method is to give plenty of room 

 between the standards, and crop between with 

 Gooseberries, Currants, and even Raspberries and 

 Strawberries. Under this system little ground is 

 allowed to remain idle. With bush or dwarf trees, 

 i.e. trees worked upon dwarfing stocks, from G' to 

 9' should be allowed each way. Planting at 6' 

 apart is quite common, but there is scarcely room 

 enough. A variant is to plant 4' apart, and lift 

 alternate trees as space is required. Those which 

 are taken out may be used to extend the orchard. 



On Grass and Arable Land. Broadly, orchards 

 are divided into two sections one, in which the 

 land between the trees is laid down in grass, and 

 the other in which the soil is kept tilled, and 

 cropped with small fruits, or other crops. Even in 

 grass orchards a radius from the trunk equal to 

 the spread of the branches should be kept clear of 

 grass and weeds for at least the first six or seven 

 years after planting. Afterwards it will not 

 matter so much. Many growers ha,ve neglected 

 thi.s item, and suffered accordingly. Grass orchards 

 should not be laid down to hay, but they may 

 advantageously be grazed by cattle. In this case, 

 however, the trees should be protected by wire or 

 other guards. 



Pruning, Manuring, and Insect Pests. Com- 

 paratively little pruning is needed by Orchard 

 trees, for a natural expansion of head is allowed. 

 Each year, however, the trees should be examined, 

 and crossing branches cut out, dead wood removed, 

 sucker-like growths taken from the centre, and the 

 branches so disposed as to admit light and air to 

 the centre of the trees. For moss, use the potash 

 or lime solution recommended under INSECTICIDES. 

 Under that heading also will be found instructions 

 for dealing with other insect pests. (For canker, 

 see CANKKU.) While organic manure should not be 

 HUM- I with the soil in which young trees are 

 planted, it may be applied subsequently in the 

 form of mulchings of yard manure. The stuff 

 should not be merely put round the bole, but laid 

 on in a coating as far as the branches extend. The 

 following mixture will also help the trees im- 

 mensely if they are carrying crops : 



'\ Mix thoroughly, 

 ' and apply at the 

 ( rate of 4 oz. per 

 Jsq. 



5 parts superphosphate or 

 bone meal. 



3 parts kainit. 

 *1 part sulphate of iron. ) sq. yd. 



This to be left out if there is iron in the soil. 

 Excellent results may also be obtained by muriate 

 of potash at the rate of If Ib. per sq. rod. For 

 light soils, agricultural salt may be applied early 

 in April at the rate of from 2J Ib. to 3 Ib. per 

 sq. rod. Bone meal is first rate for heavy land ; 

 use 3 oz. to 4 oz. per sq. yd. Liquid sewage, and 

 swillings from stables, are invaluable in winter, 

 and when the trees are in bloom, and onwards. 

 Further particulars will be found under MANURES. 



Kinds and Varieties. Apples, Pears, Cherries, 

 Plums, and Damsons are all commonly grown in 

 orchards, and to a much less degree Nuts, Medlars, 

 and Quinces. When selecting varieties, it is a 

 safe plan to look round the neighbourhood and 

 note what sorts are doing well, and what badly, 

 and act accordingly. Helpful selections of varieties 

 will be found under the respective headings of the 

 kinds referred to above. 



ORCHARD HOUSE. 



A glasshouse devoted to the accommodation of 

 a collection of the hardier fruits, the principal 

 kinds being Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, 

 Peaches, and Nectarines, and thus distinct from 

 houses exclusively set aside for Grapes, Peaches, 

 Nectarines, or Figs. The trees may be grown in 

 pots, or they may be planted out, or planted-out 

 and pot trees may be included in the same house. 

 The compromise is, however, not to be recom- 

 mended for span-roofed houses. 



Structure and Heating. Span-roofed houses are 

 always the most convenient, but lean-to and hip- 

 roofed houses are suitable. In these cases the 

 back wall may be covered with Peaches, or Nec- 

 tarines, or Koses, but the roof area should be left 

 untenanted. As an orchard house should be a 

 cool house, and its function rather to shelter than 

 to force into early growth, the ventilation must be 

 free. Top and side ventilators should always be 

 furnished, so that a reasonably cool temperature 

 may be kept up during the summer. On the other 

 hand, hot-water pipes should always be fixed, as 

 the usefulness of the house is increased at least 

 100 per cent, thereby. An unheated house is not 

 to be trusted, and it will be almost useless during 

 very sharp weather. For a lean-to house 10' in 

 width, a single flow and return of 4" piping will be 

 sufficient. For a span-roof house of 14' width, the 

 pipes should run all round. If it is intended to 

 plant out trees, the borders should be constructed 

 to suit the prospective occupants. Sweet Cherries 

 trained cordon fashion are the most suitable fruits 

 for training along the roof, if it is decided to use 

 the roof to some extent. 



Fruit Trees in Pots. Of late years great progress 

 has been made in the cultivation of hardy fruits in 

 pots under glass. There are two or three advan- 

 tages in this system of culture. They are (1) 

 earlier and finer fruit than can be obtained out- 

 doors ; (2) a greater certainty with regard to crop, 

 a- the trees are sheltered from spring frosts at 

 critical times, especially when in flower and setting 

 for fruit ; (3) a great number of varieties and much 

 fruit in a small space. It has become fashionable 

 to send the fruit, especially Plums and Cherries, to 

 the table upon the trees, and where the owner 

 desires that this should be done, an orchard house 



