The Soil of the Garden 59 



hairs are able to push in among the soil granules and 

 particles. But a hard, compact soil may be as difficult 

 for the tiny roots to penetrate as solid rock. In such a 

 compact soil, moreover, there are no spaces (or only small 

 places) between the soil particles for air, and air is neces- 

 sary for the roots as well as for the other parts of the 

 plant (pages 32 and 51). 



Land that has not been in cultivation recently is often 

 hard and compact. This is especially true of the soils 

 of backyard plots, vacant lots that have been much 

 trampled over, and areas that have been poorly drained. 

 The particles are pressed together, and the air spaces are 

 squeezed out. No gardener would think of planting 

 seed in such a soil without first preparing it by tillage. 



But even a well- tilled soil tends to become compact 

 from one season to another. It is constantly settling 

 and becoming more solid. If one tramples much about 

 the garden, the soil will become more compact, as may 

 readily be noted from the condition in the paths. 



Keeping the soil in good condition. Plowing and spad- 

 ing are the chief means of getting and keeping the soil in 

 good condition. When possible, large gardens should be 

 plowed, but most smaller gardens must be spaded. The 

 best tool for this work is a four-tined spading fork. 



In spading, most good gardeners follow the trench or 

 furrow method. The soil is dug to a depth of at least 

 6 inches, turned over, and thrown forward, leaving a 

 trench into which the next strip of soil is thrown. 

 Manure, sods, leaves, and other coarse vegetable mate- 

 rials can be placed in the trench and well covered with 

 earth; but it is best to spade the coarser materials 



