Gardening for Amateurs 



171 



Water should be given less frequently, but 

 not even when the leaves have disappeared 

 should the soil be allowed to become dried 

 up. A shady frame Is a good place for the 

 roots during the summer. 



Petunia. Plants from a February sowing, 

 and intended to flower in pots, are now 

 ready for transference to small pots. After 

 potting shade for a time, and grow them 

 in a temperature of 60, but afterwards air 

 must be given as freely as possible to ensure 

 sturdy plants. Plants which are to be 

 planted in beds should now be pricked into 

 3-inch pots rather than boxes. 



Deutzia. Plants that have flowered in 

 pots in the greenhouse should have the old 

 flowering wood cut out, and be given every 

 encouragement to make new growth, ae 

 next year's flowering depends on this. 



Azalea. As Azaleas pass out of bloom 

 pick off all seed pods, place the plants in 

 a \\ann greenhouse, and encourage growth 

 by daily syringing. Any necessary repotting 

 may l>e carried out, plenty of peat being 

 included in the compost. Very firm potting 

 is necessary for these plants. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN 

 Green Fly on Fruit Trees. Early in 

 the season many fruit trees and bushes are 

 attacked by aphides, and if prompt measures 

 are not taken in dealing with them, the 

 trees rapidly become smothered, gro \\tli 

 practically ceases, and the crops are adversely 

 affected. Not only trees growing on walls 

 but Gooseberries and Currants are attacked. 

 The remedy is to spray with some effective 

 insecticide, such as a solution of quassia 

 chips or Abol, two or three times until the 

 pests are cleared, and when doing this work 

 remember that the insects are chiefly found 

 beneath the leaves, where they are less 

 easily attacked. 



Thinning Peaches and Apricots. 

 Where it is evident that the fruit " sets " 

 are so abundant that they cannot all develop 

 properly, thinning of the fruits is necessary, 

 and the earlier this work is commenced the 

 better. Like disbudding, the thinning of 

 the fruits needs to be extended over a long 

 period, and should not be finally completed 

 until " stoning " has taken place, as at 

 this time a few fruits invariably drop. 



When the work is complete the fruits should 

 be about 12 inches apart. 



Pear Midge. Although Pears are much 

 more free from diseases and pests than 

 Apples, the Pear Midge does a good deal of 

 damage early in the year. Eggs are deposited 

 in the blooms, ultimately becoming enclosed 

 as the fruit forms, and developing into 

 white larvae. The presence of this pest can 

 be detected by the Pears attached being 

 much larger than others on the tree, and 

 the only reliable remedy is to remove these 

 abnormal fruits and burn them as soon as 

 observed, before the larvae emerge. The 

 grubs shelter in the soil, therefore in case of 

 very bad attacks it is a commendable plan 

 to remove the surface soil around the affected 

 trees and burn it. Light dressings of kainit 

 in winter are also recommended. 



Red Spider. A good many fruit trees, 

 particularly those trained to walls which 

 become very hot in the sun, are attacked 

 by Red Spider. When the leaves become 

 paler in colour than they should be, Red 

 Spider is often the cause. It is not PO liable 

 to appear where trees are well sprayed or 

 washed by the garden engine at frequent 

 intervals, as it dislikes moisture, therefore 

 this should be adopted as a preventive. 

 To rid trees already attacked, syringe well 

 with quassia solution several times, being 

 very careful to moisten the undersides of 

 the leaves thoroughly. Use the mixture 

 not more than 4 oz. of quassia chips should 

 be used to 1 gallon of water overnight, and 

 syringe with clear water next morning. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN 

 Pricking out Celery. The main crop 

 seedlings, from setxl sown in March, are now 

 ready to prick out, and this work should not 

 be postponed, as Celery is impatient of a 

 check at any period of its growth. A suitable 

 method is to place a layer of decayed manure 

 i:i a frame, cover this with .'{ indicts of rich, 

 sifted soil, and set out the plant- 4 inches 

 apart. The frame should In- shaded for a 

 week or so and kept cl.i^-d. after which air 

 ami liuht in alnmdanrr niu-t !M given. 

 Failing such convenience, cover a similarly 

 prepared bed with lights set on planks, or, 

 if a large numl>er of plants is not required, 

 prick out the seedlings in boxes. 



