226 



Gardening for Amateurs 



will leave the point of budding (the junc- 

 tion of stock and scion) 1 inch or more 

 below the surface. The bottom of the hole 

 should have .been formed into a little hillock 

 with the apex in the middle. Spread all the 

 roots out so that they do not cross each other, 

 and then throw a little loose ^arth on them, 



Rose Waltham Bride, a white climbing variety. 



in autumn unless the weather be unusually 

 dry. After the water has sunk in, earth up, 

 finally leaving the surface soil loose and 

 rough. No manure should be put near the 

 roots, and none whatever is necessary for 

 newly-planted Roses at least, until the 

 plants are growing freely and have had time 

 to form roots. It is generally 

 thought that newly-planted Roses 

 need no manure for twelve months, 

 but we consider that this is an 

 unnecessarily long period, and we 

 have never been able to discover 

 any harm, while we have often been 

 certain of good done by giving 

 newly planted Roses manure in 

 July not rank, new manure, of 

 course, but well-decayed farmyard 

 manure and weak liquid manure. 

 When planting large pillar Roses 

 or climbers it is better to make 

 a hole 3 feet across, as the trees 

 have to make larger roots and 

 generally remain longer in one 

 position. 



Planting in Spring. The pro- 

 cess of planting Roses in the 

 spring is the same as in autumn, 

 but they need more water, par- 

 ticularly if the work is deferred 

 until late March or early April. 

 It is then important to pour 

 water into the hole a day or two 

 before planting takes place, so as 

 not to make the soil too wet near 

 the top. The water below the 

 plant seems to keep the soil moist 

 for a very long time, and its appli- 

 cation is, w r e consider, a detail of 

 great value. 



Pruning. Roughly speaking, 

 after pruning is completed the 

 Rose bushes and trees should 

 consist almost wholly of " new 



adding a little at a time and shaking the Avood," that is to say, shoots of the pre- 



plant slightly to settle the Soil between the 

 roots. When 3 or 4 inches of soil have been 

 put on the roots tread until it is quite firm. 

 Then add another inch or two of soil with 

 a little bone meal or bone flour, and tread 

 firmly once more. In dry spring weather a 

 gallon or two of water may be given at this 

 stage of planting, but it is hardly necessary 



vious year's growth, cut to a proper length. 

 This is not a rule without exceptions, but 

 it is a good principle on which to work. 

 (Manifestly it does not apply in the case of 

 climbing and pillar Roses.) 



New growths are continually being thrown 

 up from the base of a Rose ; these divert 

 or draw the sap, or much of it, which was 



