Gardening for Amateurs 



321 



then analysing the substance of the ashes 

 remaining. In this way he arrived at the 

 following formula which, in consequence, 

 is considered to be a perfect Rose food : 

 superphosphate of lime, 12 parts ; nitrate of 

 potash, 10 parts ; sulphate of magnesia, 

 2 parts ; sulphate of iron, 1 part ; sulphate 

 of lime, 8 parts. A quarter of a pound of 

 the mixture should be scattered on each 

 square yard of surface soil and should then 

 be hoed beneath the surface. 







Although arches and pergolas look best 

 made of stout pieces of Larch, Spruce, Oak, 

 and Elm, iron structures are much more 

 enduring, and if these be cleverly hidden 

 with wood, no part of which is in the soil, 

 the wood used will last much longer, and 

 will not only look better than the metal, 

 but will keep the Rose growths from touch- 

 ing the iron, and it is better for them that 

 they should not do this. 

 



Seldom do Tea Roses need pruning in the 

 severe way we generally prune H.P.'s. Some 

 growers have found that they got the best 

 results by pruning severely one year, and 

 very lightly the next. Of course all should 

 not be treated alike in the same season. 

 



When Roses that have been ordered are 

 a long time in transit the bark may look 

 somewhat dry and crinkled when they are 

 delivered. In such a case dig a trench 

 6 inches or more deep in the garden, lay 

 the plants lengthwise therein, water them 

 well, and then cover them with soil, leaving 

 them so for three days at least, but not moro 

 than a week. When they are taken out any 

 leaves that were left on will fall off, but 

 the bark will look fresh and green, and the 

 buds nicely plump. Afterwards plant with- 

 out delay. 







In pruning a new Rose tree or bush 

 don't commence to cut straight away, but 

 pause awhile, look the l>n-h urll over, and 

 memorise the few main shoots or branches 

 it is desired to retain to form the framework 

 of the future bush. Having selected these, 

 cut all else away, and then you can see 

 clearly how and where to shorten the chosen 

 shoots which remain. 

 21 



Although it is better to burn all fallen 

 leaves so as to destroy any disease spores, 

 germs, etc., adhering to them, this is not 

 so important with the leaves that remain on 

 right into the winter. These are really 

 healthy leaves or they would not remain on 

 the bushes, but to make assurance doubly 

 sure they had better share the common fate 

 with their unhealthy and fallen brothers and 

 sisters. 







Roses that droop are better grown as 

 standards or half-standards. In this way 

 it is possible to admire them without dis- 

 comfort ; the flowers themselves do not get 

 splashed with wet soil, and their drooping 

 habit becomes almost an advantage in a 

 wet season, as the rain does not get into the 

 blossoms to spoil them, but runs off the 

 outer petals like it does off an umbrella. 

 



I think it was the late Mr. Prince who 

 held that it was not necessary, when planting, 

 to bury the point at which the Rose is 

 budded on the stock, in the case of H.P.'s at 

 any rate. That it is not quite so important 

 as is often stated is evidenced by the fact 

 that in the case of standards the practice is 

 impossible, the junction being feet above 

 the soil. The one solid advantage of thus 

 covering the junction is that the Rose can, 

 and generally does, throw out roots of its 

 own, thus increasing its vitality and making 

 it more or less independent of the stock. 

 There is something to be said in favour 

 of the practice, inasmuch as the Rose is 

 protected from cold winds and frost at this 



vulnerable point. 







If climbing Roses have a good supply of 

 new growths do not prune all to one length 

 or height, and if the growths be numerous, 

 after cutting out the very weak ones, prune 

 the next weakest quite short, the stronger 

 ones to a point half or two-thirds up the 

 structure, whilst the very stout and toll ones 

 should bo retained at full length. This is 

 to provide bloom from the base to the top 

 of the arch, pergola, or whatever it may be. 

 



Many of the climbing Roses, such as 

 Gloire de Dijon, look well in the open garden 

 on tripods made of stakes or bamboos, 



