Gardening for Amateurs 



323 



little manure on the soil and spray with sulphide 

 of potassium, Bordeaux mixture, &c. Look out 

 for " suckers " and remove them. 



Be very careful with the ventilation of glasshouses 

 and give the growing plants a little liquid manure. 



If convenient burn as much of the surface soil 

 as possible and put it back on the beds. 



April 



The pruning of all classes of Roses should be 

 completed during this month, even in the north ; 

 the Teas are the last to be dealt with, and in the 

 Midlands and the north should not be touched 

 until the third week. Lay to heart the pruning 

 motto, " The sooner the shorter, and the later the 

 longer," which means if you prune early prune 

 severely, and if you prune late prune lightly. 



Give rambler and climbing Roses plentiful 

 supplies of weak liquid manure to encourage early 

 growth. When manuring bedding and standard 

 Roses give free supplies to the strong growers but 

 not much to the weak ones. Pinch off the tops of 

 strong, lop-sided growths to preserve or create a 

 balance. If the weather is dry water newly planted 

 Roses twice a week. Hoe regularly and often. 

 Watch for grub, caterpillar and other pests. Rub 

 off too numerous or badly placed buds, especially 

 ingrowing ones. 



May 



Look out for maggot, grub and caterpillar 

 there will be plenty of them, and buds only slightly 

 eaten are for ever ruined. Greenfly and mildew 

 also generally put in an appearance now. Syringe 

 and spray as described elsewhere. Hoe constantly. 

 There is nearly always a bad wind-storm between 

 the 18th and 2f>th of this month, so be prepared. 

 Often the young foliage is left dry and blackened. 

 For show purposes disbud in the latter part of the 

 month if the plants are forward enough. If dry 

 water regularly but not too often. Newly planted 

 Roses and wall climbers especially must be well 

 supplied with liquid. To Roses other than those 

 newly planted liquid manure may be given. 



The side branches of newly budded standards 

 should be cut back to the " buds." 



In glasshouses watch for mildew, greenfly and 

 spider; fumigate and vaporise as is necessary. 



June 



Aphides now often appear in battalions, and the 

 cuckoo-spit becomes troublesome. Watch the tips 

 of the shoots, and if they suddenly wilt and fade 

 look for the maggots of the stem-boring sawfly. 

 If the weather be hot and dry continue to water 

 regularly. This is the best way to keep thrips 

 .luav. Those who want fine flowers, especially 

 if for exhibition, must continue to disbud. Pro- 

 tectors and shades must be used in wet weather. 

 Newly budded standards should now have their 

 branches cut back to the buds if this was not done 

 in May. Standard stocks should be prepared for 

 budding by having the side shoots reduced to 

 three near the top. 



Hoe the beds regularly, this is better than water- 

 ing. Liquid manure should still be given. 



Syringe Roses under glass fairly often, but little 

 artificial heat will now be required, yet there are 

 dull cold days at times even in June. 



July 



A bad month for mildew, and owing to the 

 quantity of open blossom a difficult time to deal 

 with the nuisance. 



Hoeing is more necessary than ever. 



Standard Briers should "be budded this is best 

 performed when the weather is showery. If the 

 weather be dry water the stocks well for a few day? 

 before operating. 



Well-rotted manure, real and artificial guano, and 

 other fertilisers may be given. Remove dead or 

 withered blossoms, they spoil the appearance of the 

 others. Layer climbers and other Roses if desired. 

 Cut out growths that have bloomed of climbers 

 and ramblers. 



Water when necessary. Watch for pests and 

 keep greenfly down. 



August 



Bud dwarf stocks. Hoe and water. Cut nut 

 old growths of climbers as they go out of flower. 

 This relieves the plant and helps the new growths. 

 Cuttings may be planted. 



September 



A good month for Rose blossom, particularly 

 in the north. The shortening period of daily 

 sunshine and the cooler nights cause the flowers 

 to develop more slowly and to be of more perfect 

 shape and richer colouring. There are not so 

 many Roses but there are more good ones. Cut 

 out stems that have flowered from climbers. 



Budding can still be done with safety, as the sap 

 often runs quite freely. It is better to visit nur- 

 series and gardens than shows to see what Roses 

 do well at this time of the year. 



Hoeing should be continued, but watering is not 

 so necessary. Land that has t>een cleared of crops, 

 and on which it is intended to plant Ruses in late 

 October, should now be turned over or trenched if 

 possible. If old and rich, dress with lime. Put in 

 cuttings to make own-root Rose plants. Order new 

 Roses if catalogue is received. 



October 



A very busy month. Complete the preparation 

 <>f iu-\v beds and send orders for new Roses as 

 soon as possible, so as to get the pick of the 

 plants and early delivery. This month and early 

 November are tin- beat time for putting in cuttings. 

 The last week in October and the first week in 

 \oveinber, if the weather be fine, are the best 

 times for planting new Roses and transplanting 

 old ones. 



Cut off the leaves of Roses before planting, this 

 prevents waste of vitality by evaporation of sap. 



burllers in the country can collect standard 

 Briers, digging them out of the hedges, if allowed. 



