364 



Gardening for Amateurs 



Tread firmly, make level, and spread over 

 the surface a thin layer of sand ; this will 

 trickle in the holes round the cuttings or 

 pipings when inserting them. The best 

 growths for propagation are the young side 

 shoots, some 2 to 3 inches long, which, as 

 a rule, cluster round the stem near the 

 base of the old flower-stalks. When grasped 

 between the thumb and finger these will 

 come away without much difficulty ; a 

 cutting formed in this way is called a 

 piping. Remove a few of the lower leaves, 



THERE5ULT 



How a Pink piping or cutting is made 

 and planted. 



and carefully pare the base smooth with 

 a sharp knife if the surface is very rough. 

 Mark on the prepared bed of soil the size 

 of the hand-light or bell-glass, and proceed 

 to insert the cuttings firmly with a dibber 

 1 inch apart. Water well with a fine-rosed 

 watering-pot as soon as inserted, and cover 

 with the hand-light or bell-glass. Shade 

 from sunshine is necessary. Air can be 

 gradually admitted when the cuttings appear 

 to be rooted, which usually takes from five 

 to six weeks. Later the glass covering may 

 be dispensed with entirely. In September 

 the young plants should be transplanted 

 carefully to a prepared bed or planted out 

 in the borders where they are to flower. 



Dividing the Plants. Lifting and divid- 

 ing the tufts or clumps is best done in 

 September or early October. In a small 

 garden this often consists in lifting the 



straggly, shabby old plants, pulling them to 

 pieces and replanting the best in the same 

 or adjacent positions, after thoroughly dig- 

 ging the ground and adding a little fresh 

 soil or old manure. Seeds may be sown in 

 autumn in light, sandy soil as soon as ripe, 

 or in March or April. Use well-drained pots 

 or pans, and place them in a frame or slightly 

 heated greenhouse. Layering is done by 

 making a slanting cut halfway through the 

 stem and pegging this in the ground in 

 the same way as when layering Carnations. 



When and Where to Plant. The best 

 time to plant border Pinks is September 

 and early October. Failing this, defer the 

 work until March. Pinks never look more 

 attractive than when forming an edging on 

 each side of a garden walk or flower border. 

 An edging of Pinks on either side of the 

 path is the pride of many an old-fashioned 

 country garden. Groups of from six to a 

 dozen plants disposed at intervals along the 

 mixed border also look very well, while 

 those who grow Pinks for cut flowers should 

 make up beds for them specially. Pinks 

 delight in a sunny position and well-drained 

 soil, made fairly rich with leaf -mould and 

 decayed manure. The cultivation of Pinks 

 cannot be carried on successfully in heavy 

 clay soils and damp, low-lying positions. 

 Under such conditions raised beds of well- 

 drained soil must be prepared for them. An 

 annual top-dressing of rich soil should be 

 applied in April. The stock of plants is 

 best maintained by propagating a certain 

 number of young plants annually. After the 

 third, or possibly the fourth, flowering season 

 the plants should be rooted out and replaced 

 with young ones. A garden in which Pinks 

 are freely planted is full of delight in June, 

 when the lovely and fragrant blooms are 

 in perfect beauty. Even when the flowers 

 are over the greyish foliage is attractive. 

 Pinks come into flower in advance of the 

 border Carnations, and in addition to their 

 charm in the garden are greatly valued for 

 cutting. 



Twelve Best Varieties. Twelve of the 

 best border sorts are : Albino, white ; Anne 

 Boleyn, rose, crimson centre ; Ascot, pink, 

 red centre ; Ernest Ladhams, blush white, 

 carmine centre ; Fimbriata plena, the old 

 double white ; Gipsy Queen, white, crim- 



