Gardening for Amateurs 



625 



choice of plants suitable for positions more 

 or less shaded is necessarily somewhat re- 

 stricted. Some of those already named are 

 more or less satisfactory in an- average season. 

 Begonias, both tuberous and fibrous rooted, 

 are quite a success ; these and Fuchsias are 

 two of the best flowers for the shady window 

 box. In a 'very dry summer window boxes 

 in the shade filled with either of these are 

 more satisfactory than those in full sunshine 

 similarly planted. Both Pansies and Violas 

 are good, providing the faded blooms are 

 regularly picked off. The latter will be 

 found especially valuable, owing to the 

 fine colours of the " selfs " (flowers of one 

 shade) ; they can be adapted to practically 

 any colour scheme that may be carried out. 

 The Canary Creeper does well in the shade ; 

 the Nasturtiums also are useful, although 

 they have a tendency to produce leaves 

 instead of flowers. Poor soil does some- 

 thing towards checking this. Musk or 

 Mimulus should be largely used, as this does 

 best when kept constantly moist at the roots. 

 There are now some lovely varieties obtain- 

 able, with very fine flowers, both as regards 

 colour and size, but the old yellow variety 

 should not be overlooked. To assist in 

 making such boxes the more presentable it is 

 recommended to plant or plunge a few of 

 the hardier ferns among the other plants, 

 but, like Musk, they must not be allowed to 

 become dry. 



Planting for Winter and Spring. 

 After clearing out the plants in autumn it 

 is advantageous to mix in a little fresh soil ; 

 in fact, where strong-rooting plants, such as 

 Marguerites, have been grown, it is better 

 to replace the old soil by fresh if possible. 

 Window boxes, when allowed to remain in 

 position during the winter, are often planted 

 with dwarf Conifers and other evergreens, 

 but it is desirable to provide for a display 

 from January onwards, and thus it becomes 

 necessary either to depart from the practice 

 just mentioned, or to plant other things 



between the evergreen bushes. Naturally, 

 bulbs are largely used for this purpose, and 

 there is little need to distinguish between 

 the different aspects, except that those 

 blooming earliest, such as Crocuses, Snow- 

 drops, Winter Aconites, Anemones, etc., 

 should be given a sunny and sheltered 

 position. In addition to these there are 

 Narcissi, in unending variety, Hyacinths, 

 Scillas, Tulips, and Chionodoxas. When de- 

 sirable, carpets and edgings may be planted 

 of Daisies, white Arabis, Aubrietia, Forget- 

 me-not and Silene. Some boxes may be 

 filled with Wallflowers and Polyanthuses, 

 and even Primroses are not to be despised. 

 Canterbury Bells make exceedingly attractive 

 window boxes, but as they cannot be re- 

 moved until well into summer, it is necessary 

 to grow other later-flowering plants in pots 

 early-flowering Chrysanthemums, for in- 

 stance to take their place. Among the 

 various evergreens used in window boxes, 

 nothing is more generally useful than 

 Euonymus, which can be obtained in variety, 

 and succeeds everywhere. 



Regarding the care of window boxes there 

 is really little to be said. The chief labour 

 is that of watering, and even in winter this 

 needs attention at times, during mild weather. 

 During the summer watering is best done in 

 the evening ; give a thorough soaking, when 

 water is needed, and no more until it is 

 really necessary again. When the plants 

 are in bud weak liquid manure, given about 

 once a week, immediately after an ordinary 

 watering, assists them considerably. The 

 soil between the plants should be pricked up 

 occasionally, and a little fertiliser in powder 

 form may be sprinkled on. Dead and fading 

 leaves and blossoms, should be removed, 

 not only for the sake of tidiness, but because 

 the formation of seed-pods puts an end to 

 free flowering. Plants that need support 

 should be attended to in this respect in good 

 time, especially in positions that are exposed 

 to the force of the wind. 



Roses after Pruning. One of the finest 

 ways of stopping Roses from bleeding, and 

 insects from boring into the pith after prun- 

 ing, is to crush a stick of sealing wax (green) 

 40 



and dissolve it in a small bottle, just covering 

 it with methylated spirit. Apply it with a 

 small brush inserted into the cork of the 

 bottle 



