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Gardening for Amateurs 



Something You May Not Know 



BULB Brevities. When potting bulbs 

 for a display in the greenhouse, do not 

 press the soil too firmly immediately 

 beneath the bulbs. When this is done, par- 

 ticularly if the soil is moist, as soon as root- 

 ing commences the bulbs lift themselves out 

 of the pots, there being practically no resist- 

 ance above, and far too much below. If 

 it is thought advisable to water the soil 

 after potting, let the pots stand for the rest 

 of the day before they are plunged, so that 

 the outside parts may dry, or the ashes 

 will stick to the wet parts, and when labels 

 are used this causes great inconvenience 

 later on. Hyacinths are often spoiled by 

 careless watering after growth has com- 

 menced. The water is poured into the 

 centres, and, some remaining there, causes 

 the buds to decay. Tulips should never be 

 allowed to become dry at the root, or they 

 are liable to go " blind " ; in other words, 

 the embryo flowers die, although the leaves 

 develop in very promising style. Forced 

 Narcissi and Hyacinths usually need sup- 

 port for their blossoms some time before 

 they finish growth and expand, and it will 

 be found, if they are not loosened every day 

 or so, that the ligatures have prevented the 

 continuance of growth in the usual way, the 

 stems having swollen below the ties. If 

 this is not remedied in time the stems will 

 often snap. Where bulbs are desired par- 

 ticularly for house decoration, but it is not 

 possible to use pots of a size to fit the vari- 

 ous receptacles, Tulips, Roman Hyacinths, 

 etc., should be grown in boxes, whence 

 they may be transferred when in bloom to 

 bowls, etc., as required. Remember that 

 the less forcing bulbs undergo the better 

 and more lasting will the flowers be. It is 

 also just as important not to remove the 

 plants, when in bloom, suddenly from a high 

 to a low temperature as it is to introduce 

 the bulbs into heat gradually when growth 

 has commenced. It is not necessary to 

 plunge Freesias in ashes after potting ; in 

 fact, cases are on record where such a pro- 

 ceeding has proved to be harmful. Simply 

 stand them outdoors in a shady spot until 



growth commences, when they should be 

 removed to a cold frame. Later take them 

 into the greenhouse, and bring into flower 

 as required. 



Planting Bulbs. It is, of course, 

 necessary to defer the planting of spring- 

 flowering bulbs until October, or later, 

 when they have to follow summer bedding 

 plants. In positions where it is possible to 

 plant earlier, however, August is the best 

 month for the purpose, and this is also an 

 ideal time for lifting and dividing any that 

 have become too thick, as at this period 

 rooting has not recommenced. Beginners 

 are often puzzled when advised to plant 

 certain bulbs a given distance below the soil, 

 whether the top or bottom of the bulb 

 should be at the depth stated. This may 

 appear a small matter, but when very large 

 bulbs are being planted it may easily mean 

 a matter of several inches difference. When 

 a catalogue says plant 4 inches deep, it means 

 that when the bulb is placed in the hole there 

 should be 4 inches of soil above the top or 

 growing point. By the way, always plant 

 with a trowel, thus ensuring that the bases 

 of the bulbs come into contact with the soil. 



Watering Plants after Top-dressing. 

 Plants often suffer from want of water 

 after being given a top-dressing of soil. 

 The newly added soil does not dry so quickly 

 as the older, simply because the latter is 

 full of roots, whereas the former contains 

 none. Therefore the top soil is seen to be 

 moist, and it is often taken for granted that 

 the whole is in like condition. As a matter 

 of fact, plants which have been newly top- 

 dressed need watering almost as often as 

 previously, the only difference being that 

 the fresh soil acts as a mulch, and keeps away 

 the drying influences of sun and air, which 

 are in some cases considerable and in others 

 not. Incidentally this shows a point in 

 favour of top-dressings being light and 

 applied rather frequently instead of at one 

 time, since if the latter plan is carried out 

 there is the possibility of the new soil be- 

 coming sour from constant watering before 

 roots enter it. 



