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Gardening for Amateurs 



ated will produce seeds, they cannot always 

 be depended upon to come quite true ; for 

 this reason they are often propagated by 

 means of cuttings. The method adopted is 

 as follows : When the flowers are over the 

 plants are partially cut down and given a 

 light position in the greenhouse. This will 

 lead to the production of shoots from the 

 base ; these, when large enough, are taken 

 off as cuttings, inserted in pots of sandy soil, 

 and placed in a closed shaded frame, where 

 they will soon root. 



Clarkia. (See Annuals for the Green- 

 house.) 



Clematis. (See Climbing Plants for the 

 Greenhouse.) 



Glianthus. The most robust Clianthus 

 is C. puniceus, a native of New Zealand, and 

 hardy in the mildest parts of the country. 

 The red lobster-claw-like blossoms are freely 

 borne in spring. There is also a variety 

 (albus) with whitish blossoms, but it is much 

 less ornamental than the type. As a wall 

 or pillar plant in the greenhouse or conserva- 

 tory C. puniceus is seen to considerable 

 advantage. Another kind, C. Dampieri, 

 known as the Glory Pea of Australia, has 

 really gorgeous flowers of black and scarlet 

 colouring. It is very difficult to grow, and 

 can only be induced to thrive by grafting on 

 seedlings of the Bladder Senna (Colutea 

 arborescens) ; this is, however, a work that 

 requires a good deal of practical skill. 



Glivia miniata. This plant, known also 

 as Imantophyllum miniatum, forms a tuft 

 of ornamental strap - shaped dark green 

 leaves. The flowers, which are borne in 

 large hemispherical heads on a tall, stout 

 stem, are usually of some shade of light 

 scarlet or terra-cotta, and appear during 

 spring. Olivias may remain for two or 

 three years in the same pots without being 

 disturbed at the roots, but when repotting 

 is necessary it should be done immediately 

 after flowering. A suitable compost is 

 turfy loam, leaf -mould, and sand, with a 

 few pieces of broken charcoal. If the 

 flowers are artificially fertilised seeds will be 

 produced. They take about a year to ripen, 

 and if sown at once will soon germinate. 



Gobaea. (See Climbing Plants for the 

 Greenhouse.) 



Cockscomb. (See Celosia.) 



Coleus. (See Foliage Plants.) 

 Cordyline. (See Foliage Plants.) 

 Goronilla glauca. A pretty, free-flower- 

 ing shrub with glaucous Rue-like leaves and 

 yellow Pea-shaped blossoms. They are borne 

 during winter and spring. It is a plant of 

 easy cultivation, and will grow in ordinary 

 potting compost, while it may be stood out 

 of doors during the summer months. 

 Correa. (See Hard- wooded Plants.) 

 Crassula. (See Succulent Plants.) 

 Grinum. Showy bulbous plants with 

 white or pink blossoms. The best for the 

 greenhouse are C. Powellii and its white 

 variety, and C. Moorei, having blossoms of 

 blush tint. These bulbs are strong rooting, 

 and need to be put in large pots or tubs in 

 good loamy soil. They will then keep in 

 good health for years without being dis- 

 turbed. They may be kept safe from frost 

 during the winter in a shed or coach-house, 

 and placed outside in the summer. The 

 flower spikes make their appearance in July 

 or August, and when in full bloom they are 

 very ornamental. 



Cyclamen. The different forms of Per- 

 sian Cyclamen constitute an exceedingly 

 popular race of greenhouse flowers, which are 

 at their best in winter and spring. Besides 

 the ordinary type there are varieties with 

 fringed and crested flowers. Cyclamens are 

 increased by seed, which may be sown in 

 July and August, that is to say, as soon as 

 possible after it is ripe. If not convenient to 

 do so at that time it is best to wait until the 

 spring. The young plants when large enough 

 should be potted singly in small pots, using 

 a compost made up of equal amounts of 

 loam and leaf-mould, with a liberal sprinkling 

 of sand. As spring advances they may be 

 given a shift, and when large enough put 

 into their flowering pots, 5 or 6 inches in 

 diameter. For the last potting a little 

 brick rubble mixed with the soil will be 

 helpful. Throughout the summer a frame 

 in a shady position suits Cyclamens well. 

 They must have plenty of air and are greatly 

 benefited by an occasional moistening with 

 the syringe. During mild rains the lights 

 may be left off. The treatment of old plants 

 is often a puzzle to many. They should 

 after flowering be watered as before until the 

 leaves turn yellow, when they may be kept 



