756 



Gardening for Amateurs 



should be completed at the earliest oppor- 

 tunity now, selecting a day for the work 

 when the leaves are quite dry. Tie all the 

 tops if the work has to be carried out single- 

 handed, but remove the ties when the pro- 

 cess is completed. The plants should be 

 earthed up to the top leaves now, and the 

 sides be neatly sloped to throw off rain to a 

 certain extent. It is well to have protective 

 material ready for this crop in case it is 

 needed. 



Asparagus Beds. When the foliage has 

 become yellow, Asparagus beds should be 

 cleaned up for the winter. Cut the tops 

 down close to the soil and burn this and any 

 other rubbish and weeds that may be pre- 

 sent. It is the practice of many gardeners 

 to apply a heavy dressing of rotten manure 

 to the beds after cleaning them off at this 

 season, but a better plan is to spread a light 

 layer over the surface now, and give a heavier 

 application early in spring. 



Cauliflowers. Ventilate the young 

 plants pricked out in frames freely in all 

 but frosty weather. More may be trans- 



planted if required, both in frames and on 

 a warm border outside. The heads of those 

 now maturing should be protected by break- 

 ing leaves over the centres, or tying the 

 leaves closely around them. 



Geleriac. If this crop is left in the ground 

 protection must be provided, and the best 

 way to accomplish this is to use the soil 

 between the rows for covering the plants. 

 But it is a good plan to lift at least part of 

 the crop and store under cover. 



Gleaning Up. The kitchen garden ought 

 now to be cleared, so that all may be tidy 

 for the winter. This must certainly not be 

 taken as an indication that work is suspended 

 until the return of spring, although it is to 

 be feared that many amateurs are prone to 

 follow such a procedure. The land can 

 always be thrown up roughly when in a 

 fit state to be dug, and the weather will do 

 a lot of good to ground so treated. But for 

 the present remove weeds and rubbish, also 

 the remains of crops, and either burn them 

 or place in a heap in a corner to rot, and 

 ultimately to be returned to the garden. 



The Garden Hose. Although there 

 can be no doubt as to the advantage of 

 applying tepid water to the roots of plants, 

 yet this is often entirely out of the question 

 owing to the large amount of watering to 

 be done, and the impossibility of allowing 

 a sufficient quantity to stand in the sun 

 before use ; of course, where ponds are 

 available the difficulty is overcome. Then 

 the garden-hose comes in, enabling the work 

 to be done quickly, easily and thoroughly ; 

 the only drawback is that the water coming 

 straight from the main is several degrees 

 colder than the soil. Now, a really good 

 hose is usually costly, so that it needs a 

 little care in use if it is to last for some years. 

 First of all, always obtain a reel at the same 

 time as the hose, for it is impossible other- 

 wise to roll the latter satisfactorily, and it 

 certainly does not pay to leave it lying 

 about, possibly kinked or twisted, for 

 in that case the rubber soon becomes 

 cracked. When it is not in use place 

 the hose under cover, being especially 

 careful not to leave it in the sun. When 

 rolling a length of hose after use, do so 



slowly, as by this means all the water is 

 ejected. It is not difficult to repair a hole 

 in the hose, provided some short lengths of 

 lead or iron pipe, of a size to fit inside the 

 hose, can be obtained. Pieces 6 inches or 

 so in length are suitable, and they will grip 

 better if first roughened with a large file. 

 Cut the hose through at the burst, and cut 

 both ends true. Insert half the length of 

 the pipe in one end of the hose and the 

 remaining half in the other until the two 

 ends meet. It is essential that the tube 

 fixes quite tight inside the hose, especially 

 where there is rather high pressure. Now 

 bind round each side of the joint with copper 

 wire as tightly as possible without cutting 

 into the rubber. 



Watering Perennial Borders. Borders 

 containing strong-growing perennials need 

 more water than flower beds. In stormy 

 weather the latter will possibly be quite 

 moist, but if the soil among the perennials 

 is examined it will most probably be found 

 to be dry. Such plants may easily suffer 

 in unsettled weather, when the rain is not 

 particularly heavy or long continued. 



