Gardening for Amateurs 



841 



THE FRUIT GARDEN 



Wall Trees. Walls are of great value 

 in a garden, for trees planted against them 

 are protected, and, in fact, without some 

 such protection it would be impossible to 

 grow Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines, and in 

 most districts Figs, in the open air. Suit- 

 able kinds can be selected for any aspect. 



Fruits for Various Walls. Walls that 

 face south are suitable for Peaches, Nec- 

 tarines, Figs and Apricots. Plums will 

 also do well here. West walls will serve 

 for those fruits just mentioned where the 

 south aspect is not available, while Plums 

 and Pears thrive admirably in such a posi- 

 tion. Even walls facing the north will grow 

 Morello Cherries, trained Currants and Goose- 

 berries, early Pears, and Plums required to 

 hang late. Finally, the east wall can be 

 planted with Pears. Plums, Currants and 

 Gooseberries, while Figs often succeed in 

 such positions. 



Forms of Wall Trees. Trees trained 

 for planting against walls are usually obtained 

 in one of three forms. The fan-trained shape 

 is the commonest and most suitable for 

 Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines, Cherries and 

 Plums. In addition to the dwarf fan-trained 

 there are others, with longer stems, trained 

 for planting between the former so that a 

 larger crop may be secured from a given 

 space in the early years after planting. 

 When the dwarf trees need more space the 

 taller trees are removed. Pears are some- 

 times trained horizontally from the main 

 stem in successive tiers, thus forming espaliers, 

 a form in which they invariably do well. 

 Cordons are trees with one or two stems 

 only, and they may be either upright or 

 oblique. Pears and Apples are often grown 

 in this form. 



Planting. Before wall trees are planted 

 the sites must be well prepared and allowed 

 to settle. Organic manure should not be 

 added, but lime and mortar rubbish is valu- 

 able, especially in the case of stone fruits. 

 The roots ought not to be buried deeply, 

 but the soil should be trodden well. Do not 

 secure the growths to the wall for at least a 

 month after planting, as the soil always 

 settles a little. Fifteen feet apart is a suit- 

 able distance for all fan-trained and espalier 

 trees on walls, while cordons need only 2 feet. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN 



Sowing Peas. As with the sowing of 

 Broad Beans at this season, so with Garden 

 Peas ; the practice cannot be recommended 

 except in gardens possessing favourable 

 climate, soil and site. A border facing 

 south and sheltered from the north and east 

 should be chosen, and it is advisable to sow 

 somewhat more thickly than usual, as losses 

 will certainly occur. Damp the seeds and 

 dust with red lead before sowing as a pro- 

 tection against mice. To keep off slugs rely 

 on frequent sprinklings of soot. A good 

 round-seeded variety, such as Bountiful, 

 should be sown at this season. 



Mint. If a few roots are lifted, put in 

 boxes of soil, placed in a warm greenhouse 

 and watered as necessary, young shoots will 

 soon appear. 



Pea Sticks. These ought to be stored 

 under cover if possible, but it is not advisable 

 to use them after a second year. A supply 

 should now be obtained of sticks both for 

 Peas and Runner Beans. 



Crop Rotation. The rotation of the 

 various crops grown in the vegetable garden 

 is a matter of the utmost importance. It 

 should not be thought that such rotation 

 is only applicable to large and well-ordered 

 gardens ; it is equally important in small 

 gardens to change the crops annually as far 

 as possible. The preparation of a plan each 

 year showing the exact position occupied 

 by each crop is of considerable assistance, 

 and during the long evenings such a plan 

 ought to be drawn. 



Manuring for Particular Crops. 

 Although it is the practice of many owners 

 of small gardens to dig and manure the 

 whole garden alike, such a proceeding is not 

 likely to be productive of the best results, 

 and, incidentally, it ma,y often be more ex- 

 pensive than the method of preparing each 

 plot according to what is to be grown upon 

 it. Crops needing liberally manured ground 

 include Celery, Peas, Beans, Onions, Leeks, 

 Cauliflower and Lettuce. Others that will 

 do well without manuring provided the soil 

 is fairly good are Beetroot, Carrots, Pars- 

 nips, Salsafy, and other root crops which 

 grow deeply. The remaining vegetables 

 will succeed with an average dressing of 



