8 9 4 



Gardening for Amateurs 



this season when the days are so short. In 

 or near towns and smoky districts it is 

 necessary to wash the outside of the glass 

 at intervals to remove the sooty deposit 

 that lodges there during damp weather. 



Sponging Palms, etc. Foliage plants 

 such as Palms, Dracaenas, Aspidistras, etc., 

 quickly become dirty, especially after being 

 used in the house, and this is not conducive 

 to good health. The leaves are easily cleaned 

 by being sponged with warm soapy water. 

 If scale or other pests are present some 

 approved insecticide should be added to 

 the water. After sponging, syringe the 

 plants with tepid soft water to remove any 

 deposit from the foliage. 



THE FRUIT GARDEN 

 American Blight. When the trees in 

 garden or orchard are covered with white 

 patches of a woolly appearance, it is a sure 

 indication that American blight is present. 

 A good deal may be done just now to combat 

 this pest by painting the affected parts with 

 paraffin. In trees which are cankered, the 

 damaged parts are usually badly infested, 

 and loose bark should be removed and burnt. 

 Repeat the painting once or twice, if possible, 

 so that the pest may at least be kept in 

 check. 



Pruning. The annual winter pruning of 

 fruit trees and bushes may now be com- 

 menced, and should be persisted in during 

 favourable weather ; in January and Feb- 

 ruary colder weather is usually experienced, 

 which renders the work less pleasant. The 

 actual work in pruning various fruits is 

 difficult to describe plainly, and one prac- 

 tical demonstration will do more than much 

 reading on the subject, but unfortunately 

 this is not always possible. But a good deal 

 can be learnt by close and constant observa- 

 tion of the trees, as regards their habit of 

 growth and manner of fruiting. 



Fruit Trees in the Open. Bush, pyra- 

 mid, and espalier fruit trees in the open 

 garden may be treated first. Where further 

 extension is desired the leading shoots may 

 be left from 6 inches to 1 foot in length, 

 the former length if they are rather weak, 

 and the latter if strong. Cut close to buds 

 pointing either outward or upward, trim 

 all smaller side shoots back to two buds 



from the base. If the trees have filled their 

 allotted space all growths may be cut to 

 two or three buds to induce the formation 

 of fruiting spurs. 



Orchard Trees. These are usually 

 standards, and there is a general idea that 

 such trees require no pruning. While they 

 do not need cutting hard back every year, 

 they need attention in the matter of removing 

 dead wood, and thinning the growths, and if 

 the trees have been neglected for some years 

 this is no light task. In thinning remove 

 those branches that cross one another first, 

 and then the weakest of those remaining. 

 When branches have to be cut out with a 

 saw make the surface smooth with a sharp 

 knife, thus assisting quick healing. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN 



Root Crops. If Artichokes and Parsnips 

 are left in the ground during the winter 

 where they keep in better condition than 

 if lifted and stored it is necessary always 

 to have sufficient roots available to supply 

 the demand should frost render digging 

 impossible for a time. The practice of 

 leaving Jerusalem Artichokes in the same 

 plot to grow year after year, digging only 

 those needed for use, is not to be recom- 

 mended. 



Parsley. In cold localities it is worth 

 while giving Parsley protection during the 

 winter, otherwise, where the demand is 

 continual, the supply will be very short 

 after severe weather. A sowing is usually 

 made in June for winter picking, and if a 

 frame can be placed over the bed, plenty 

 will be available during the next three 

 months. On a smaller scale handlights or 

 cloches are serviceable. 



Celery. Protect the rows of Celery, 

 especially the white varieties, which are less 

 hardy than the red, if severe frost sets in. 

 This can be accomplished by covering with 

 straw, bracken, or similar material, which 

 should be removed as soon as milder con- 

 ditions prevail. 



Forcing. Continue to lift roots of Rhu- 

 barb and Seakale, and place them in pots 

 or boxes of soil in a warm greenhouse. The 

 roots will start into growth quite readily in 

 the garden now, if covered with pots and 

 leaves and fresh manure. 



