Gardening for Amateurs 



961 



thong-like roots. Seakale needs generous 

 treatment in the growing quarters to induce 

 large thick roots with strong healthy crowns. 

 Plant out the roots singly 15 inches apart in 

 deeply dug and heavily manured land in 

 February. One or two slight dustings of 

 salt will be found of benefit especially if 

 the crop is grown on light soil. In Novem- 

 ber lift the roots clean from their growing 

 quarters, sort out the strongest crowns or 

 roots, placing the weaker ones and the roots 

 as thick as one's finger on one side in readiness 

 for planting again in February. They will 

 keep quite well stored in soil or ashes during 

 the winter. Enough manure is placed under 

 a frame in November or December to gener- 

 ate a gentle warmth, and upon this sufficient 

 soil in which to insert the roots up to the 

 crowns ; they may be placed rather thickly 

 together. Should the soil be dry, give water ; 

 it will most probably be moist enough at 

 this season. All the subsequent care neces- 

 sary is to see that daylight does not enter 

 the frame (the lights must consequently be 

 matted close, probably double mats will be 

 required) and to make sure that the tempera- 

 ture is maintained at about 55. When 

 cutting the crop, a thin slice is taken from 

 the crown of the plant, and this holds the 

 " head " of white blanched produce together. 

 Seakale at midwinter may make anything 

 from 6d. to Is. per Ib. according to the state 

 of the market. If well grown and properly 

 blanched the crop nearly always sells well. 

 Two cuttings may be taken from the plants, 

 but the produce from the second cutting is 

 generally poor and seldom fetches a high 

 price. The crop can be cut throughout the 

 winter by having the roots stored ready and 

 by starting a fresh batch in warmth every 

 week. 



Strawberries. If these are grown it is 

 necessary to set aside a piece of ground of an 

 approximate size to the number of frames it 

 is possible to devote to the purpose. As 

 early in July or August as rooted layers can 

 be secured set them out on firm soil a foot 

 apart each way so that each plant stands 

 about six inches away from the frame at the 

 ends and at the top and bottom. They will 

 need watering during dry weather and an 

 occasional dusting of soot or of a concen- 

 trated manure will make them grow speedily 

 61 



and produce strong crowns in the autumn. 

 Weeds must be kept out and the plants benefit 

 from periodical hoeings until the end of 

 September. The frames need not be put 

 over the plants until April, in fact it is risky 

 to put them on earlier, because if the flowers 

 are produced too early in the season there is 

 danger of damage from spring frosts. After 

 the flowering is over clean straw is placed 

 among the plants, otherwise the necessary 

 waterings will cause the berries to be gritty 

 from splashed soil and unfit to eat. The 

 fruit will be ripe in May, and is usually 

 sold at the beginning in 1-lb. punnets ; 

 later in 4- or 6-lb. chips. I have known 

 these cold-frame Strawberries realise 2s. 6d. 

 per Ib. and run down to 9d. at the end of the 

 season. When successful Strawberries are 

 a most profitable crop. The frames may 

 need protection if frosts occur, and ventila- 

 tion must receive careful attention at all 

 times. Sometimes the same plants prove 

 serviceable a second season, but it is advisable 

 to have a fresh batch each year. When the 

 berries have been gathered, the frames can 

 be taken away for covering beds which 

 should have been prepared in readiness for 

 Cucumbers or late Melons. The best Straw- 

 berry to grow is Royal Sovereign. 



Tomatoes. These should be sown on a 

 warm bed in February. It may be possible 

 to find room for one or two boxes of seed in a 

 frame amongst other things until the young 

 plants appear through the soil. When about 

 an inch or two high they should be pricked 

 off at about 4 inches apart in another 

 warm frame which has been previously 

 prepared for them. Keep the plants near 

 light, protect from frost at night and give 

 water as required. In May they can be 

 planted out under cloches, one plant under 

 each. Under these, if properly attended to 

 as regards ventilation and protection, the 

 plants make rapid progress. Gradually the 

 glasses are removed entirely, and the plants 

 left growing in the open. The cultivation 

 of Tomatoes in the open has not of recent 

 years been very successful commercially ; 

 either crops have been poor owing to un- 

 favourable seasons or wholesale prices have 

 been hopeless from the cultivators' point of 

 view. Still, here and there, there may be 

 cases or localities where they will pay. 



