978 



Gardening for Amateurs 



grafting we have what is known as a maiden 

 tree, where the growth is usually a straight 

 stem, as in Fig. 1 (page 977). This should 

 be cut back, according as it is strong or weak, 

 to induce buds to start into growth at the 

 height from the ground necessary eventually 

 to form the dwarf tree. After another year 



Fig. 5. Two-year-old tree after a 

 year's growth. 



we have what is known as the two-year-old, 

 that is, a tree two years from the time of 

 budding or grafting. In Fig. 2 is illus- 

 trated the method of dealing with such a 

 tree. We may have any number of shoots 

 or young branches with which to deal, from 

 perhaps four to about eight or nine. 



It is old advice, but none the less sound, 

 to cut to an outside bud. By this means 

 the tree is induced to throw branches out- 

 wards, and the centre is thus kept open, 

 or with few growths in the inside. Some 

 of the growths will be much stronger than 

 others, and these must not be cut back so 



severely as the weaker ones. About one- 

 third is sufficient to remove from stout 

 shoots, though weaker ones may be shortened 

 by about half, and still weaker even more in 

 proportion. Some there will most probably 

 be that encroach on the centre or on other 

 shoots, and these may be out back to two 

 or three buds from their base. It is advisable 

 on bush Apple trees to allow a clear stem of 

 from 12 to 18 inches from the ground. This 

 will be- found to facilitate the cultivation of 

 the soil under the trees, and is especially 

 important now that grease banding has been 

 shown to be so helpful where the Winter 

 Moth is troublesome. 



The pruning as shown for a two-year-old 

 tree must be continued as the trees advance 

 in size (Fig. 3). Do not allow too many 

 main branches ; usually ten or twelve are 

 sufficient : the lateral growths 011 these are 

 shortened annually in July and January to 

 induce the formation of fruit-bearing spurs, 

 and the end shoots or terminals require 

 shortening in a greater or lesser degree, 

 according to their strength. A well-grown 

 bush Apple tree should look something like 

 the branch (e) shown in Fig. 3 when pruned 

 in winter. 



Pyramid Trees. In addition to what is 

 known as the bush or dwarf tree, there is 

 also the pyramid, of which the pruning is 

 somewhat different. Instead of attempting 

 to keep the centre of the tree open, it must 

 be allowed to fill up and grow higher than 

 the remainder of the tree. It is difficult to 

 form good pyramids of some varieties of 

 Apples, but others, because their habit of 

 growth is more suitable, are admirable for the 

 purpose. The pyramid is not so generally 

 useful for the Apple as for the Pear, though 

 when well tended it is of neat and attractive 

 appearance. Figs. 3, 4, and 5 show how 

 a young Apple tree ought to be pruned for 

 the purpose of forming a pyramid. 



Standards. When the trees are young or 

 recently planted, a certain amount of shorten- 

 ing must be done for at least two or three 

 years, to ensure a sufficient number of 

 branches, and to assist in strengthening the 

 base of each. Young trees received from the 

 nurseries may be dealt with as shown in 

 Fig. 1 (page 979). Pruning to an outside bud 

 will still be necessary to help in opening the 



